Patio

Patios are generally impervious surfaces. As such they must be inspected for the same water management concerns as other hardscape on the property, e.g. driveways and walks. They also present many of the same defects, including trip hazards.

Inspect the overall lay of the patio, paying careful attention to slope and drainage. Patios must never be installed above the level of a sill plate or the exterior siding. They should be sufficiently below the threshold level of any exterior entry to avoid deterioration or water intrusion into the interior.  Inspect for damage, deterioration, settlement and heaving, gaps (especially between the patio and the home), undermining, and deterioration of joints that will allow water penetration and ongoing damage. Special attention should be paid wherever a patio joins steps or stoops; this has implications for drainage and trip hazards due to settlement and heaving. Inspect any patio enclosures or covers for damage, deterioration, leaks, and instability.

Patio

The patio has cracks. This permits water penetration and is conducive to further deterioration. Repair and seal the cracks.

There are deteriorated mortar joints at the patio. This permits water penetration and will cause further damage. Repair the mortar joints.

The wood spacers at the patio are heaved. This is a trip hazard. Replace the spacers.

There is damage to the patio. Without repairs, moisture penetration will cause further damage. Repair the damage.

The patio is settled and heaved. This is a trip hazard and permits water penetration, which is conducive to further deterioration. Repair and stabilize the patio to prevent further settlement. Repair and seal any gaps to prevent moisture intrusion.

There is a gap between the patio and the foundation. This will allow water penetration into the structure. Repair and seal any gaps to prevent moisture intrusion.

The patio’s surface water drainage is inadequate. This may cause standing water, premature wear of the surface, or water intrusion into the structure. Repair the patio to ensure that surface water is directed away.

The patio has been installed above the siding materials. This will allow water penetration into the structure, and will cause deterioration of the siding materials and structural framing. Repair the patio to ensure that it is below the siding and framing, and that proper drainage directs surface water away from the siding and foundation.

The patio is sloping towards the foundation. This will allow water penetration into the structure. Repair the patio to ensure that surface water is directed away from the foundation.

The patio is deteriorated. This permits water penetration and is conducive to further deterioration. Replace the patio.

Portions of the patio are undermined. This will lead to further erosion of the soil, and may cause settlement or failure of the patio. Repair and stabilize the patio to prevent further settlement. Repair and seal any gaps to prevent moisture intrusion.

Tree roots are causing the patio to heave. The condition likely will worsen unless the roots or trees are removed. Remove the roots or the tree, and repair the patio as needed.

Patio Enclosure

Inspect any patio enclosures or covers for damage, deterioration, leaks, and instability.

The support post for the patio cover is deteriorated. This is a safety hazard. Replace the support post.

The support post for the patio cover is unsecured. This is a safety hazard. Secure the support post.

The patio cover is damaged. This will affect its function and can be a safety hazard. Repair or replace the patio cover.

The patio cover leaks. This will affect its function. Repair or replace the cover.

Patio Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Covering material, limited access: The patio cannot be properly inspected because a covering material (e.g., carpet, rug or other material) prevents unobstructed access. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The patio is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the patio.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The patio is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the patio.

Minor cracks, no differential movement, seal cracks: The patio has minor cracks with no differential movement. Seal the cracks to prevent water intrusion.

Spalling, cosmetic issue: The patio is spalling, which is the separation of the surface layer, and is the result of improper finishing or weathering. Spalling is a cosmetic issue and generally does not affect the functionality of the patio. Repairing spalled concrete is specialty work and will fail if not performed properly.

Fence

Inspect the fencing for damage, deterioration, leaning, missing sections, or areas where the intended purpose of the fence as a barrier is compromised. Posts should be secure in the ground.

If a swimming pool is present, a recommendation should be made to have a specialty Swimming Pool Inspection performed that includes the fence system. Pool fences have specific requirements beyond those of general fencing.

Fence

The fence is damaged. This will affect its function. Repair or replace the fence.

The fence is deteriorated. This will affect its function. Replace the fence.

The fence and posts are leaning. This will affect its function. Repair or replace the posts or fence as needed.

The fence is bare (not painted or stained). Unpainted or unstained materials will deteriorate more quickly than treated materials. Paint or stain the fence.

A section of the fence is loose. This will affect its function. Repair or replace the fence section.

Fence rails are loose from the posts. This will affect its function. Secure the rails.

A section of the fence is missing. This will affect its function. Replace the section.

The fence posts are deteriorated. This will affect its function. Replace the posts.

Gates

Gates should operate freely without binding or dragging. All hardware should be intact and operative.

The fence gate latch is not operating properly. Repair or replace the latch.

The fence gate latch hardware is missing. This will affect its function. Replace the hardware.

The fence gate hinges are broken, preventing the fence gate from opening/closing properly. Repair or replace the hinges.

The fence gate binds when operated. This will affect its function. Repair or replace the gate.

The fence gate is rubbing the ground, preventing proper operation. Repair or replace the gate.

The fence gate is damaged/deteriorated, and is inoperative. This will affect its function. Replace the gate.

 

Fence Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The fence is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the fence.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The fence is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the fence.

Electric fence, beyond scope: The property includes an electric fence, which is beyond the scope of a home inspection.

Pasture fencing, beyond scope: The property includes pasture fencing, which is beyond the scope of a home inspection. Pasture fences generally require ongoing maintenance.

Retaining Wall

Retaining walls are load bearing landscape structures. A failure can, depending on the wall’s location, affect the home, its attached hardscape, and the property’s overall topography. Drainage to prevent a buildup of hydrostatic pressure behind the wall is critical in preventing overall movement. However, these systems are not always visible or apparent. Retaining walls are visually inspected for deterioration, leaning, or other signs of failure. Masonry structures should have intact mortar joints, and masonry units should be free of spalling or cracking. Landscape timbers should be solid and free of rot. Concrete walls should not show cracking.

Inspect for any signs of movement or leaning. There should not be any forward tilting overall, or bulging. The wall should have a straight line from the top to the bottom. “Dry-Lock” blocks must always be stepped back evenly from the bottom to the top.

Retaining Walls

There are minor cracks in the retaining wall. This can allow moisture penetration and cause further damage. Repair and seal the cracks.

There is minor movement in the retaining wall. The cause for this should be determined, and repairs made to prevent further movement. Hire a contractor to evaluate the movement and provide repairs as needed.

The retaining wall is leaning. The cause for this should be determined, and repairs made to prevent further movement. Hire a contractor to evaluate the movement and provide repairs as needed.

The retaining wall is deteriorated. Replacement may be needed to ensure continued function. Replace the retaining wall.

The retaining wall is collapsing. The cause for this should be determined, and safety measures made to prevent further movement. Replace the retaining wall.

Drainage System

Inspect for evidence of a drainage system behind the wall, or that one is not present or has failed. Landscape timbers and Dry-Lock blocks allow drainage through the natural openings in a wall’s face. Concrete or masonry walls should have visible drainage. This may be a drain tile exiting from the downhill side, which may terminate at a distance. Weep holes are common, especially in older construction. They should be present every several feet and not be obviously clogged. Significant efflorescence and peeling paint are warning signs that water is seeping through the body of the wall.

The retaining wall has no weep holes. Weep holes are designed to alleviate water pressure from behind the wall that might otherwise cause the wall to shift and fail. Add weep holes to the retaining wall.

The retaining wall’s weep holes are clogged. Weep holes are designed to alleviate water pressure from behind the wall that might otherwise cause the wall to shift and fail. Clear the weep holes.

The retaining wall has inadequate drainage. Pressure can build up behind the retaining wall and cause movement or failure. Add drain holes to the retaining wall, or install a drainage system behind it.

Guardrails

Retaining walls that are 30” or more above grade should have a guardrail installed at the top. Note that older codes called for a guardrail when the wall is 36” above grade. Inspect guardrails for deterioration. They should be secure, stable, and provide good support without movement. Rails should be 34” – 38” high above the grade surface. The openings between balusters should be no more than 4”. All balusters should be present and intact. Guardrails with climbable horizontal balusters should be reported.

The guardrail is missing at the retaining wall. This is a safety hazard. Install a guardrail.

The guardrail is loose. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the guardrail.

The guardrail is damaged or deteriorated. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the guardrail.

The balusters are horizontal at the guardrail. This is a safety hazard. Horizontal balusters can be used by children to climb onto the rail. Repair or replace the balusters.

The guardrail is too low. This is a safety hazard. Guardrails should be at least 36″ high. Raise the height of the guardrail.

Retaining Wall Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Visual inspection only, below grade not inspected: Retaining walls are visually inspected for deterioration, leaning or other signs of failure. Portions of the structural components are below grade and therefore cannot be inspected. Determination of the adequacy of a retaining wall is outside the scope of a home inspection absent any signs of failure.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The retaining wall is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the retaining wall.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The retaining wall is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the retaining wall.

Garage Vehicle Door

Garage vehicle doors are the heaviest moving objects in a home. As such they have significant potential for safety hazards. They are also the largest exterior entryway, and therefore must be appropriately weather-tight.

Inspect the vehicle door(s) for their overall condition, noting damage, deterioration, poor fit in the opening, or any misalignments. Inspect all safety, mounting and guide hardware to ensure that the door(s) are secure, stable, and move freely as designed. Inspect latching and locking mechanisms for proper operation and condition. Inspect for the presence and condition of weather stripping to ensure that the elements do not enter the garage interior.

Inspect vehicle doors that open upwards for balance; they should maintain whatever position they are set to and not close on their own. They should move freely in the tracks or guides without binding. Inspect overhead doors for intact counterbalance mechanisms, e.g. torsion springs, safety cables, and extension springs. Doors that move laterally should be inspected to ensure they open fully and do not drag or bind.

Vehicle Door

The vehicle door is damaged or deteriorated. This affects safety and proper function. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the door as needed.

The vehicle door binds in the tracks during operation. This affects proper function and can cause further damage. Hire a contractor to identify the cause and provide repairs as needed.

The vehicle door’s hardware is loose. This affects proper function and is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the hardware as needed.

The vehicle door’s hinges are loose. This affects proper function and is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the hinges as needed.

The vehicle door’s locking mechanism is damaged and will not unlock. Repair or replace the lock as needed.

The vehicle door’s lock and handle are missing. This affects proper function. Replace the lock and handle.

The vehicle door has a broken window. This is a safety and security issue. Replace the window glass.

The vehicle door is inoperative. Repair or replace the door.

Safety Features

The vehicle door’s safety cables are damaged or missing. This is hazardous if the springs fail. Hire a contractor to replace the safety cables.

The vehicle door’s torsion spring is damaged. This is a safety hazard. Hire a contractor to replace the spring.

The vehicle door’s extension springs are damaged. This is a safety hazard. Hire a contractor to replace the springs.

.

Weather Stripping

The vehicle door’s weather stripping is missing. This will allow air, water, small animals, and weather to travel freely into the garage. Replace the weather stripping.

The vehicle door’s weather stripping is damaged. This will allow air, water, small animals, and weather to travel freely into the garage. Replace the weather stripping.

Garage Vehicle Door Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Locked, not operated/tested: The door is locked and, therefore, is not operated or tested.

Blocked, not operated/tested: The door is blocked and, therefore, is not operated or tested.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The garage vehicle door is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the door.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The garage vehicle door is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the door.

Garage Vehicle Door Opener

The inspection procedures for Garage Vehicle Door Openers addresses the applicable safety standards that designate a Primary Entrapment Protection device as one that relies on downward travel resistance when the door is closing. Optical sensors (so-called “electric eyes”) are Secondary Entrapment Protection devices. These procedures are based on the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) mandatory safety rule 16 CFR part 1211. The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 1990 (Improvement Act) mandated that automatic residential garage door operators (GDOs) manufactured on or after January 1, 1991 conform to the entrapment protection requirements of the 1988 version of UL 325. On June 19, 1991, the Commission issued the garage door operator standard (16 CFR Part 1211).

Vehicle Door Opener

Assess the garage carefully to determine if there are any obstacles or personal belongings that will prevent or interfere with safe door operation. This must include vehicles or personal property that are in the closure path of an open vehicle door. Inspect the door tracks. They must be free of damage, or any obstacles or locking devices that will impede the door’s movement.

Perform an operational test of the opener. The company-supplied GDO test block, or a suitable substitute, must be used. Your outstretched arms are not acceptable. A flashlight or roll of paper towels on the ground is not acceptable. The door should reverse within 2 sec. of closing on the test block and fully re-open . Once you have confirmed that the primary reverse mechanism works, re-test the door by breaking the optical beam. The door should reverse immediately and open fully.

The automatic garage door opener is an older type that appears to lack an auto-reverse safety feature. This can be hazardous for vehicles or people beneath the door when it is closing. Replace the garage door opener.

The automatic opener at the vehicle door does not have an optical sensor. While it may not have been required when the opener was installed, this is a safety hazard. Install optical sensors.

The optical sensors are improperly installed at the garage vehicle door’s automatic opener. The recommended height for safe operation is 4″ – 6″ from the floor. Reinstall the optical sensors.

The automatic opener does not reverse properly at the garage vehicle door. It should reverse within 2 seconds of closing on a 1 – 1.5″ object placed on the floor. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the garage door opener.

The garage vehicle door opener’s emergency disconnect rope is missing or too high. This is a safety concern. Install or lower a disconnect rope.

The chain on the automatic garage door opener has too much slack. This allows shocks to the mechanism during operation and can cause the chain to break or come off. Adjust the chain.

The garage door automatic opener is not securely mounted. This is a safety concern. Securely mount the garage door opener.

The wall button for the garage door opener is damaged or missing. This can affect proper operation. Repair or replace the wall button.

The wall button/keyless entry pad for the garage door opener is mounted too low to the floor. These should not be lower than 5′ above floor level so that children cannot activate the door without supervision. Relocate the wall button.

Garage Vehicle Door Opener Field Procedure

1. INTRODUCTION

1.1 This standard covers the procedures for inspecting garage door operators (GDO).

1.2 These Field Procedures address the applicable safety standards that designate a Primary Entrapment Protection device as one that relies on downward travel resistance when the door is closing. Optical sensors (so-called “electric eyes”) are Secondary Entrapment Protection devices.

1.3 These Field Procedures are based on the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) mandatory safety rule 16 CFR part 1211. The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 1990 (Improvement Act) mandated that automatic residential garage door operators (GDOs) manufactured on or after January 1, 1991 conform to the entrapment protection requirements of the 1988 version of UL 325. On June 19, 1991, the Commission issued the garage door operator standard (16 CFR Part 1211).

1.4 FROM 16 CFR PART 12II:
A. § 1211.7 Inherent primary entrapment protection requirements.
(a) General requirements. A vertically moving residential garage door operator system shall be supplied with inherent primary entrapment protection that complies with the requirements as specified in paragraph (b) of this section.
(b) Inherent primary entrapment protection, vertically moving doors.
For a vertically moving residential garage door operator system, ……… the operator of a downward moving residential garage door shall initiate reversal of the door within 2 seconds of contact with the obstruction as specified in subparagraph (b)(3) of this section.

(3)(i) A solid object is to be placed on the floor of the test installation ……. and located in line with the driving point of the operator. When tested on the floor, the object shall be 1 inch (25.4 mm) high.

2. PRIOR TO THE INSPECTION: THE NIGHT BEFORE

2.1 Inspectors shall:

A. Ensure that they have received the company-issued GDO test block, and are carrying it to their inspections.

B. Ensure that they are fully familiar with applicable state and local requirements. Most GDO manufacturers and jurisdictions allow testing of the Primary Entrapment Protection device by using a 2×4 board laid on the wide side (1 ½”- 3.8cm). NOT ALL DO. Additionally, some jurisdictions have adopted newer versions of The Standards based on recent revisions to UL 325. These recommendations to the CPSC include a requirement that the door control button must be held down continuously to complete closure.

3. PRIOR TO THE INSPECTION: ON SITE

3.1 It is important to inspect in a methodical and regular manner. All accessible vehicle doors equipped with a GDO must be inspected following these procedures.

A. Assess the garage carefully to determine if there are any obstacles or personal belongings that will prevent or interfere with safe door operation. This must include vehicles or personal property that are in the closure path of an open vehicle door.

B. Be aware of any children present. Notify the appropriate adults that they must supervise children during your testing to prevent a personal injury, or allow a child to leave the property when a door(s) is open.

C. Ensure that opening a vehicle door will not allow a pet to escape. Request the assistance of the Homeowner or Realtor® as needed.

4. THE INSPECTION PROCESS: VISUAL ASSESSMENT

4.1 Start your inspection with a visual assessment. Identify which doors have a GDO. The steps that follow should be applied with each vehicle door in turn. Operating a GDO without a careful examination first can result in property damage and/or personal injury. Report all defects, taking photos whenever possible.

A. Observe the GDO mechanism to determine if it is plugged in. If it is not, or if the power is not on at the property, report the GDO as “Not Inspected” due to no power. Report any electrical installation defects in the “Electrical” section.

B. Inspect the door tracks. They must be free of damage, or any obstacles or locking devices that will impede the door’s movement. They should be straight front-to-rear, and securely installed with all fasteners present. The rail between the motor and door, if present, should also be straight front to rear and attached at the door’s left-to-right center point.

C. Inspect the motor unit. Ceiling-installed units should be mounted securely to prevent wobbling. Two or more angled brackets are normally needed. A minimum distance of 7’ from the floor is usually required. It should be at approximately the same height as the drive track or where the door will be when fully open. The drive chain, if present, should be tight enough to prevent it from hanging at or below the bottom of the rail between the motor and the door. All control wires should be clear of moving parts.

D. Inspect the door, springs, rollers, and mounting points for damage, looseness and/or missing fasteners. The drive rail, if present, should be connected to solid framing, normally using a mounting block.

E. The Emergency Release Handle should be installed no higher than 6’ from the floor.

F. The door control switch or push button should be no lower than 5’ from the floor to prevent children from operating it.

5. THE INSPECTION PROCESS: PRIMARY ENTRAPMENT PROTECTION

5.1 Perform an operational inspection after completing the procedures in Sections 3 and 4. Repeat the steps outlined with each door present. Report all defects, taking photos.

5.2 The company-supplied GDO test block, or a suitable substitute, must be used. Your outstretched arms are not acceptable. A flashlight or roll of paper towels on the ground is not acceptable. Any test object must be a solid material of the proper dimensions as noted in Sections 1.4.A or 2.1.B.

A. Open the door by pressing the control switch or push button briefly and then releasing it. The door should open completely without holding down the button. Do not move away from the control.

B. Be alert for any unusual noises or stalled movement that may indicate an obstacle, damaged track, or faulty operator. If any is noted, stop the door’s movement immediately using the control button. Inspect the door installation to determine if any problems were missed during the visual inspection. If none is evident, close the door using the control switch. If the door will not operate you may need to use the Emergency Release Handle. Report any defects. Inform your client and the Realtor® of any problems that prevent you from closing the door and securing the property.

C. When the door is fully open, place the GDO test block on the ground in line with the drive point of the opener.

D. Close the door, pressing the control switch briefly and then releasing it. The door should close completely without holding down the button. [See Section 2.1.B]

E. The door should reverse and fully re-open within 2 sec. of closing on the test block. If it does not, take a picture of the door closed on the block. Take a picture of any Manufacturer label present that outlines testing with a block. Report the defect and insert the photos, noting which door is defective.

6. THE INSPECTION PROCESS: SECONDARY ENTRAPMENT PROTECTION

6.1 Visually inspect for the presence of Secondary Entrapment Protection devices. These are optical sensors, or so-called “electric eyes”.

6.2 Report as a defect if none are present. In an RPA, report as Inoperative with additional information that none are installed.

A. The optical sensors should be installed at 4” to 6” above the floor. Report as defective if otherwise.

B. Once you have confirmed free closure of the door by following the procedures in Section 5.2.A -E, press the operator button to close the door from an open position.

C. Move to the door opening and break the optical beam. The door should reverse immediately and open fully. Report as defective as needed.

7. WRAPPING UP

7.1 Ensure that all doors are left as you found them. If a defective condition has prevented properly securing the property be sure to discuss this with any Realtors® present. Reasonable efforts should be made to inform the Homeowner(s) as needed.

7.2 Remember that these Field Procedures describe the only approved standards for testing GDO Primary Entrapment Protection devices. On rare occasions, damage to the door or overall installation may occur when following these procedures. Any damage should be reported promptly to your Area Manager so it may be referred properly to HQ staff. Do not become involved in any arguments on-site. A polite explanation of why the testing method was used is sufficient.

Garage Vehicle Door Opener Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Not connected to a power source, not operated/tested: The garage vehicle door opener is not connected to a power source and, therefore, cannot be operated.

Parts not visible, limited inspection: Parts of the garage door opener unit are not visible, which limits the inspection.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The garage door opener is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the garage door opener.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The garage door opener is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the garage door opener.

Carport

Inspect the carport for damage, deterioration, and stability. All supports should be in good condition and the structure should be securely anchored into the ground. The carport should not sway or move under lateral pressure. Inspect the overhead covering (roof) to ensure that it is secured to the structure, and is free of holes, damage, deterioration, and evidence of leaking.

Carport

There are damaged/deteriorated supports at the carport. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the supports.

The carport’s support posts are not secured, or are unstable. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the supports.

The carport roof is damaged/deteriorated. This will allow leaks, and can be a safety hazard. Repair or replace the roof.

The carport pad is undermined. This can allow damage and failure. Repair the support and address any water control issues as needed.

Carport Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The carport is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the carport.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The carport is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the carport.

Standards of Practice

  • Inspect
    • Roofing materials
    • Flashings
    • Skylight and any roof penetrations
  • Describe
    • Roofing materials
    • Method(s) used to inspect the roofing
  • Not required
    • Antennae
    • Other installed accessories

Roof Covering

Inspect and report each specific roofing material of a specific age range as a separate “Roof Covering” Component, i.e. Roof Covering 1, Roof Covering 2. Each covering’s material, location on the home, estimated age, and method(s) of inspection must be reported. Gain as full and complete an access to the roof as safely possible. Take “General Photos” of each Roof Covering, as well as at least 1 representative close-up photo, and photos of any limiting factors, e.g. solar panels.

Inspect and report damage or deterioration. General defects should be reported. These include, but are not limited to, branches very close to or touching the roofing; debris; biological buildup; devices attached to the surface without flashings; unworkmanlike installations; unworkmanlike or temporary repairs, e.g. tar or asphalt. Inspect as possible the underlayment, especially for roof coverings that are “single piece”, e.g. slate, clay and concrete tiles, and wood shakes/shingles. These materials rely on the underlayment (tar paper or ice and water shield) for the actual water exclusion.

Fiberglass/Asphalt 3-tab and Architectural Shingles

Inspect the shingles for excess granule loss, cracking, cupping and curling, or other signs of advanced age or premature failure. Report any shingle installations on roofs that are too shallow. A surface with a slope between 4/12 and 2/12 must have less shingle exposure and a complete underlayment of doubled roofing paper or a self-sealing membrane on the entire roof. In high wind areas additional fasteners are also required. Surfaces less than 2/12 cannot have shingles installed at all.

Inspect the eave edge for the presence of a proper starter course.  Observe the gables edges for inadequate or excess overhang. Report any “nail pops” where the fasteners have backed out of the sheathing. If it can be done without damaging the roofing, always attempt to lift a sampling of shingles to inspect the nailing pattern. Report any fasteners installed through the exposed shingle faces. The ridge is an exception. Any fasteners that are exposed by necessity should be sealed.

There are tree limbs touching or near the roof. This can damage the roofing and permit water penetration. Remove the tree limbs.

There is moss, mold, or other biological build-up on the roof covering. The growth may damage the roof covering and cause premature deterioration or failure. Clean the roof covering.

There is debris on the roof. This can damage the roofing and permit water penetration. Clean the debris.

The roofing is damaged. This permits water penetration. Repair or replace the roofing.

There is a satellite dish or other equipment attached directly to the roof covering. This can damage the roofing and permit water penetration. Monitor the area frequently for water penetration; consider relocating the equipment.

There are exposed nail heads. These are prone to rusting and permit water penetration. Repair the roofing to eliminate the exposed nail heads.

There are nail pops. Nail pops permit water penetration and further damage. Secure and seal the nail pops, and reseal the bottom of the shingle tabs.

The shingles are improperly installed. The tabs edges are not offset from the tabs above and below them. This will allow leaks. Hire a roofer to reinstall the shingles.

The valley shingles are improperly installed. This will allow leaks. hire a roofer to reinstall the roofing.

The starter course of shingles is missing at the eaves. This will allow leaks and deterioration. Hire a roofer to install a starter course.

There have been repairs to the roof covering. It is difficult to evaluate the cause, extent and quality of the repairs. Monitor the repairs to consider if additional action is required. Hire a roofer as needed.

There have been repairs to the roof covering with asphalt or caulking. This type of repair is subject to failure and should be considered temporary. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The roofing is deteriorated. This permits water penetration. Hire a roofing contractor to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

The roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

The roof covering is not appropriate for a low-pitched roof. This increases the likelihood of leakage and will cause the roofing to wear prematurely. Hire a roofer to replace the roofing with a system acceptable for low-sloped roofs.

The roof has more than two layers of asphalt composition shingles. The roof framing is not designed to carry the additional load. Remove all of the existing layers of roofing materials and install a new roofing system. Sheathing and/or framing repairs may be necessary.

The roof covering appears to be Atlas Chalet or CertainTeed “organic” shingles, which are subject to class action lawsuits due to allegations of blistering, cracking, delamination, and premature failure. This roofing cannot be repaired and roof replacement usually is required. Replace the roofing.

Mineral Roll Roofing

This is a low-quality roofing material generally reserved for sheds and animal pens. Its use on a home as a primary roof covering should be inspected very carefully. The product resembles 36” sheets of a material similar to fiberglass/asphalt shingle, but it is thinner and less durable. Mineral roll roofing can be installed with and without an underlayment, fully adhered or edge/overlap adhered only, and with hidden or exposed fasteners. Side edges should have drip flashings rather than an overhang. NOTE: Don’t mistake Single Ply Modified Bitumen for this product. They are very different in quality.

Inspect for signs of damage or deterioration as with fiberglass/asphalt shingles. Blistering is usually a sign of excess adhesive applied under the sheet and should be reported. Wrinkling and loose areas indicate poor surface adhesion and/or a non-adhered, improper installation, and/or inadequate fastening.

This smooth, non-granular membrane with a reflective coating is Single Ply Modified Bitumen, not “Mineral Roll roofing.”

If you see “bleed-out” of tar at the roofing’s edges, it’s almost assuredly Single Ply Modified Bitumen.

The mineral roll roofing is wrinkled and has raised areas. This is usually due to an improper installation and excess adhesive, and will likely fail prematurely. Hire a roofer to provide repairs or replacements as needed.

There are seams on the mineral roll roofing membrane which need resealing to prevent further damage and leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The roofing is deteriorated. This permits water penetration. Hire a roofing contractor to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

Terne Metal

Terne roofing is an “old house” product consisting of metal sheets dipped in a tin/lead alloy. Seams are standing or flat, and without exposed fasteners. It relies on a sacrificial painted coating for proper service and longevity. With a diligent maintenance recoating every 4-7 years Terne roofs have a very long service life, often over 100 years. By the same token, neglect and/or improper repairs and maintenance will cause the roof to fail, or at a minimum, require a constant and very short service regimen.

Never walk on the seams of a metal roof; walk only on the flat areas. Terne roofs must have a viable paint coating. Peeling, flaking, and/or bare areas should be reported. A “crunchy” sound or feel underfoot indicates excess corrosion that may not be visible. The application of thick oil-based sealants (tar and asphalt patching) is the most common way that Terne roofing is damaged. This must be reported. Terne roofing seams are especially vulnerable, and are often improperly repaired and/or maintained. They must be inspected for damage and/or corrosion. Be alert to signs of ponding and poor drainage, e.g. standing water or puddle stains.

The paint on the metal roofing is failing. This is an important component of the roof system as it protects the roofing itself from corrosive elements. Paint the roofing.

The metal roofing has been improperly repaired using asphalt or caulk. These materials will trap moisture against the metal and cause further deterioration. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

The seams on the metal roofing are damaged or deteriorated. This will allow leaks and further damage. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

The metal roofing is deteriorated, and has unworkmanlike repairs. These are unlikely to be reliable. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

Pre-Coated Metal

This is essentially a modern version of Terne metal roofing. Galvanized and “5-V” metal sheets fall into this category, although the galvanized products are considered a low-cost option more suitable for sheds and farm buildings. The minimum pitch for these systems is 3/12.

Always walk on the flat areas, never on the raised portions or seams. Pre-Coated metal roofs can be hidden fastener systems or exposed fasteners. Regardless, they both rely on mechanical exclusion of moisture. Flashings, counter-flashings, and overlaps are required. Caulk and sealants are not acceptable. Panels that are damaged or have holes must be replaced. Exposed fasteners must have integral rubber washers, and cannot be over-driven (causing a dimple in the sheet) or raised above the surface. The metal pans should be installed snug to a solid sheathing. Loose, flapping, or tented sections should be reported.

The roofing screws are located at the low areas of the metal roof, rather than on the ridges. This is contrary to manufacturer guidelines and can allow leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There are loose fasteners. This allows water penetration and may permit the roofing to loosen and shift out of position. Hire a roofer for repairs as needed.

There are rusted fasteners. This allows water penetration and may permit the roofing to loosen and shift out of position. Hire a roofer for repairs as needed.

Stone-Coated Metal

Stone-Coated Metal roofing is a premium product usually seen only on high-end properties. It consists of heavy metal pans with natural stone chips embedded in a surface layer of acrylic. A baked-on UV inhibiting top coat is usually applied. They must be installed on a minimum slope of 3/12.

Care must be taken if walking on the surface. Side edges and high areas cannot be walked on, nor can the upper exposed portions of overlapped tiles. Some of these systems are installed over battens, and must be walked only on the battens. If in doubt, do not walk on the roof. A batten installation system should not be used in high wind or hurricane zones.

Stone-coated metal roofing should be inspected for damaged, missing, loose, or slipping sections. The pieces should be overlapped for weather-tightness, and be free of caulking. The roofing can still perform with granule loss as long as the sections are not corroded, but this is a sign of a roof nearing its EUL.

Stone-coated shingles are generally resistant to hail damage.

Stone-coated shingles being installed over battens.

Gable edge detail

A few of the Stone-Coated Metal shingle varieties

There is granule loss on the stone-coated metal shingles. This has a significant effect on their longevity and reliability. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

Tiles: Clay, Concrete, and Composite

Tile roofs should not be walked on. They are not recommended for slopes less than 3/12 unless installed as purely decorative over a waterproof system. Inspect for damaged, slipping, loose, or missing pieces. Cracks are not uncommon; tar and caulking is a temporary repair. The eave edges of roofs covered in curved tiles (“mission” or “barrel”) should have “bird stops” installed or some method of preventing pests from entering under the tiles.

Both clay and concrete tiles can be glazed on the exposed side. Overall age and the wearing-off of a glazing will permit moisture absorption through the tiles. When observed, careful attention must be paid to the attic or interior inspection and the use of Infrared to detect possible water intrusion. Signs of overall wear should be reported with an EUL information statement. A common issue with any roofing material that lasts as long as tile is that it can outlast both the fasteners used to secure the pieces as well as the roof’s flashings. Pay close attention to the flashings and any signs of loose or slipping tiles.

Be alert to correctly identify composite tile products. Dents, bending, or curling are not seen in clay or cement tiles, and indicate a synthetic material.

There are loose tiles. This can allow water penetration. Repair or replace the tiles.

There are cracked or broken tiles. This permits water penetration. Replace the tiles.

There are missing tiles. This allows water penetration. Replace the tiles.

There have been repairs to the tile roof covering with asphalt or caulking. This type of repair is subject to failure and should be considered temporary. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The tiles are old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the tiles as needed.

Slate

Slate roofs should not be walked on. They are not recommended for slopes less than 3/12 unless installed as purely decorative over a waterproof system. Be alert to synthetic or imitation slates. Natural slate does not bend or curl. Inspect for damaged, slipping, loose, or missing pieces. Cracks are not uncommon; tar and caulking is a temporary repair. The exception is the ridge, where it is common to use asphalt as a sealant. While most slates have a long EUL, some varieties do not, or have softer “ribbons” present. These ribbons can wear faster, creating holes. Be alert to delamination. Small areas of mild surface or edge delamination is not a problem. But if it is throughout the thickness of the slate or widespread it should be reported.

Inspect the eave edge for a proper starter course. Observe the gables edges for inadequate overhang. A common issue with any roofing material that lasts as long as slate is that it can outlast both the fasteners used to secure the pieces as well as the roof’s flashings. Pay close attention to the flashings and any signs of loose or slipping slates.

There are cracked or broken slate tiles. This can allow water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There are loose, slipping, or missing slate tiles. This allows water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There have been repairs to the roof covering with asphalt or caulking. This type of repair is subject to failure and should be considered temporary, and is only acceptable at the ridge. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The sealant at the slate roof’s ridge is failing. This allows water penetration. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The slate tiles are deteriorated and delaminating. This indicates a slate that is at the end of its service life and can allow water penetration. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

There are synthetic slates that are curling and lifting. This allows water penetration. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required. Note that the working lifespan of manufactured slates is not known.

Wood Shakes and Shingles

Wood roofs should not be walked on, or only with extreme caution. Damage to the roof, slippery surfaces, and loose tiles are potential fall hazards. Wood roofs are highly dependent of the quality of the product, installation, and maintenance for longevity. Very thick wood tiles, installed on skip sheathing and maintained every 5-8 years, can deliver an EUL of 30-40 years. Poorly-maintained, thinner shakes or shingles on solid sheathing may only last 16-20 years. Both shakes and shingles can be installed on solid roof sheathing or a spaced sheathing. Skip (spaced) sheathing allows for the drying-out of the wood. Any portions of the roof requiring an ice and water shield must have solid sheathing.

Inspect the wood roofing for damage, cracks and splits, deterioration, slipped or missing tiles, and biological build-up. An adequate side-edge overhang should be present, and well as an eave starter course and overhang. Side-spacing between tiles is required to allow for expansion and contraction. Gaps should be between ¼” to 3/8” for shingles, and slightly wider for shakes. They must be installed on a minimum slope of 3/12 for shingles, and 4/12 for shakes.

It is important to be able to distinguish between wood shakes and wood shingles. Shakes are generally split rather than sawn. They are thicker, heavier, and rougher in appearance, usually 5/8” or thicker at the butt end. Shingles are always sawn. They are thinner, lighter, and much more uniform, generally 3/8” to ½” at the butt end. They have different installation protocols.

Wood Shingles

Wood Shakes

UNDERLAYMENT vs. INTERLAYMENT: This is a critical difference between shakes and shingles. “Underlayment” refers to a weather-resistant barrier (WRB), e.g. tar paper, that is installed on the sheathing continuously under all wood tiles. “Interlayment” is a WRB that is installed between each course of tiles.

SHAKES: Wood shakes should never have an underlayment except (a) where an ice and water shield is installed on solid sheathing (b) when installed on a raised, horizontal batten system. Instead, an interlayment is required.

SHINGLES: Wood shingles should NEVER be installed with an interlayment. This inhibits proper drying out of the wood, and is a significant defect. They should be installed directly on the sheathing (except where an ice and water shield is) or on a specifically-designed “breather mat.” The best installation is a “3-ply” arrangement wherein there’s no vertical gap alignment within 3 courses.

The wood shingles are installed using an interlayment. This is contrary to industry standards, and will accelerate deterioration and leakage. Hire a roofer for an evaluation and repairs or replacements as needed.

There is moss, mold, or other biological build-up on the roof covering. The growth may damage the roof covering and cause premature deterioration or failure. Clean the roofing.

The felt interlayment on the wood shake roofing is exposed. This is contrary to accepted standards and will allow water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

Fasteners are backing out of the wood roof tiles. This will cause the shakes/shingles to become loose and allow water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs as needed.

The wood roofing shows signs of deferred maintenance. Some tiles are split and/or curling. This can affect the working life and cause premature deterioration. Hire a roofer for repairs as needed.

There are damaged or deteriorated wood tiles. This allows water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There are missing wood tiles. This allows water penetration. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The wood roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

Single Ply Modified Bitumen

Modified Bitumen is a rolled-out membrane. It comes in a smooth and a granular finish, and is suitable for low-sloped and flat surfaces. MB should be installed on a smooth decking surface. Watch for  regular raised seams under the membrane, or for a “crunchy” sound or feel when walking on the roof. This indicates an installation directly over an old metal roof. It is improper, and will void the material’s warranty and fail prematurely.

Always inspect the seams, edges, overlaps, and transitions. They should be tight with no signs of lifting or looseness. All overlaps in a torched-down system should show a “bleed-out” of asphalt approximately 3/8”. Smooth surfaces should have a consistent reflective coating in good condition. Peeling, flaking, cracking, and bare spots should be reported. Be alert to nail head bumps. These indicate past moisture penetration and decking deterioration that’s causing fasteners to back out. Soft spots underfoot should be reported. The membrane should not have blisters, wrinkles, splits, or loose areas. Be alert to evidence of ponding, which should be reported. Repairs with tar or caulk on the surface or at seams should be reported as temporary measures and not reliable.

Granular torched-down modified bitumen showing proper “bleed-out.”

The reflective coating on the roof membrane is failing or inadequate. This affects the roofing’s performance and will cause premature deterioration. Repaint the roofing.

There is excessive ponding of water on the roof. Standards require that water evaporates within 48 hours after the rain stops. This can cause premature failure and leaks. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

There are seams on the roofing membrane which need resealing to prevent further damage and leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There have been repairs to the roof covering with asphalt or caulking. This type of repair is subject to failure and should be considered temporary. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The membrane has moisture spots or blisters. This indicates trapped moisture and possible pinhole leaks. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The membrane is improperly installed. There are loose and buckled sections. This can cause membrane damage and premature failure. Hire a roofer to remove and replace the membrane.

The roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. The membrane has significant cracking. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM)

EPDM is a low-sloped/flat roof membrane often referred to as “rubber” roofing. It is similar in look and feel to inner tube material. Residential roofs are usually installed fully adhered to the decking with mechanical bars and buttons on the vertical sidewall terminations. The membrane is stretchy and resilient. EPDM is not affected by ponding. Nevertheless, manufacturers recommend positive drainage; water weight can exceed stress limits, and freeze-thaw cycles over seams can cause failures. EPDM is incompatible with asphalt-based roof cements or mastics. Only approved primers and adhesives can be used for installations or repairs.

Inspect the seams, edges, overlaps, and any transitions. They should be tight without lifting or looseness. The overall membrane should be tight to the decking without loose areas or wrinkles. Impressions of regularly-spaced circles are normal: the underlayment board is usually attached with large washers at the fasteners. Look for small beads of moisture on the surface which indicate possible pinhole leaks allowing trapped water to escape. EPDM is prone to shrinkage. Over a larger surface this can cause bridging off of the deck. This should be reported as it will encourage premature failure.

Installing EPDM underlayment with washers: Seeing an impression of the washers on the finished roof is OK as long as there aren’t beads of moisture showing (or any debris underneath!).

There is excessive ponding of water on the roof. Standards require that water evaporates within 48 hours after the rain stops. This can cause premature failure and leaks. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

There are seams on the roofing membrane which need resealing to prevent further damage and leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The membrane has been improperly repaired using asphalt or caulk. These are incompatible with this material and will fail, causing leaks. Hire a roofing contractor to evaluate the condition and to make repairs as required.

The membrane is improperly installed. There are loose and buckled sections. This can cause membrane damage and premature failure. Remove and replace the membrane.

The membrane is improperly installed. There are loose and buckled sections. Additionally, the wall termination is using asphalt, which is incompatible. This can cause membrane damage and premature failure. Remove and replace the membrane.

The roof membrane has separated from the decking and is “tenting.” This stresses the EPDM and will cause premature failure and leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The membrane has moisture spots or blisters. This indicates trapped moisture and possible pinhole leaks. Remove and replace the membrane.

The roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

These low-slope/flat roof membranes are usually white, fully adhered to the roof deck in residential applications, and may use mechanical bars and buttons on vertical sidewall terminations. They are very similar in appearance. PVC is somewhat shinier and more slippery, and is not unlike a swimming pool liner. Both are “thermoplastic”, meaning that they are softened with heat to weld the seams together, which then re-harden for a permanent bond. Modern, higher-quality versions of these membranes have similar performance in the field. PVC has shown some instance of outgassing its plasticizers, leading to brittleness and less UV resistance.

Both PVC and TPO are incompatible with tar and asphalt mastics and caulks. Repairs should be made with fully-prepared and heat-welded patches. Inspect the seams, edges, overlaps, and any transitions. They should be tight with no signs of lifting or looseness. The overall membrane should be tight to the decking and free of loose areas or wrinkles. Be alert to evidence of ponding, which should be reported.

There is excessive ponding of water on the roof. Standards require that water evaporates within 48 hours after the rain stops. This can cause premature failure and leaks. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs or replacement as needed.

There are seams on the roofing membrane which need resealing to prevent further damage and leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The membrane has been improperly repaired using asphalt or caulk. These are incompatible with this material and will fail, causing leaks. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The membrane is improperly installed. There are loose and buckled sections. This can cause membrane damage and premature failure. Remove and replace the membrane.

The roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

 

Built-Up Membrane

This low-slope/flat roofing system is sometimes referred to as “tar and gravel”. It has been falling out of favor due to modern membranes such as EPDM and TPO. Additionally, they are relatively high maintenance, labor-intensive systems. A BUR’s quality and longevity is very dependent on the installation’s workmanship, methods, and proper maintenance. BUR roofing consists of between 3 and 5 layers of asphalt roofing sheets or tar paper. Each successive layer is mopped down, usually with hot asphalt. A top layer of gravel ballast or a granular top sheet is installed. This serves as UV protection. A raised “gravel stop” flashing should be installed at the perimeter if ballast is used.

Inspect for a full and complete top coat. Voids should be reported. Make note of any areas that are soft or spongy underfoot. Inspect for blisters, which indicate trapped moisture or air under the plies. They can stretch and stress the membrane, and leave exposed UV-vulnerable areas. Cracking, open seams, and gaps or separations from the flashings are notable. Ridges, which unlike blisters are usually hard to the touch, form at joints and seams. They can allow ponding. Be alert to signs of temporary and ongoing repairs such as heavily-applied mastic or flood coats. Poor drainage and ponding should be reported.

The built-Up roofing has bare spots not covered by gravel. These are vulnerable to UV damage and will fail, allow leaks. Hire a roofing contractor for repairs as needed.

There are blisters on the built-up roofing. This indicates trapped moisture between the roofing layers, and will cause premature deterioration and leakage. Hire a roofing contractor for repairs or replacements as needed.

The roof covering is old, worn, and deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the roofing.

ATLAS CHALET SHINGLES

Atlas Roofing Corporation is a manufacturer of building materials based in Atlanta, Georgia. During the 2000’s, Atlas produced a 3-tab asphalt shingle sold under the name “Chalet”. The shingles were sold primarily in the Southeastern United States and were marketed as an affordable alternative to more expensive architectural shingles.

USEFUL LINK:  Atlas Chalet Shingles

ALLEGED PROBLEMS
Atlas Chalet shingles were purposely manufactured with varying levels of granule thickness on the face of the shingle. This manufacturing process created a low-cost product similar in appearance to an architectural shingle. Within a few years of installation, homeowners began complaining the shingles were failing due to a manufacturer defect.

Claims have been made that the manufacturing process made the shingles susceptible to premature failure. Signs of failure are alleged to include blistering, cracking, and moisture penetration, all of which could lead to reduced life expectancy. Atlas marketed the shingles with a 30-year warranty, but the company has not honored the warranty up to this point as it relates to these specific claims.

LAWSUIT
Atlas discontinued Chalet shingles in 2010. In at least a handful of situations, homeowners have turned to the legal system for help. Initially, lawsuits were filed in Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia, Ohio and Tennessee. In 2014, these suits were compiled into multi-district class-action litigation under the jurisdiction of the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of Georgia. Currently, plaintiffs’ attorneys are seeking additional homeowners with Chalet shingles installed to join the suit and strengthen their case.

REPLACEMENT
Defective and/or failed shingles cannot be repaired. Replacement is the only option, and usually requires that the entire roof be replaced. Care should be taken to document the currently installed roofing materials in the event a class-action settlement is reached in the future on behalf of all effected homeowners.

IDENTIFICATION
Atlas shingles are most readily identified as they are a “mock” dimensional shingle. They are a 3-tab product with thickened areas of granule. This gives them the appearance of an architectural product.

Common modes of failure are blistering, pitting, granule loss, delamination, and cracking. The damage tends to occur in the built-up areas that imitate the extra layers found in architectural shingles. Due to the problems during failure, the shingles tend to absorb moisture, and are prone to wind damage, lateral cracks, and tear-off.

These pictures show both the built-up granule feature, as well as the common blistering that occurs.

If you’re lucky, you can access a portion of the underside where the shingles are labeled.

Blistering can cause significant delamination. Cracking is also a common failure mode.

Roof Covering Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: There are areas of the roof which are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design, and materials. Therefore, the inspection is significantly limited. We recommend further evaluation by a roofing specialist.

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to deck: There are areas of the roof which are inaccessible because of an installed deck. Therefore, the inspection is significantly limited. Repairs or replacement of the roofing would be difficult, i.e., dismantling or removal of the deck would be required.

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to solar panels: There are areas of the roof which are inaccessible because of installed solar panels. Therefore, the inspection is significantly limited. Repairs or replacement of the roofing would be difficult, i.e., dismantling or removal of the solar panels would be required.

Painted with coating/sealant, future maintenance/replacement: The roof is painted with coating/sealant. Therefore, the inspection is significantly limited. Paint can seal cracks and/or obscure evidence of moisture intrusion. Sealant typically is used after water control issues occur and is often applied to delay replacement of the roof. This method does not address any previous leaks or associated damage and the long-term integrity of this type of application is questionable. Anticipate future maintenance and/or replacement.

Prior repairs, difficult to evaluate cause/extent: There have been repairs to the roof covering. It is difficult to evaluate the cause and extent of repairs. You should ask the owner about the problems they had, when the repairs were done, who did them, if they have a receipt for the work, if there is a warranty in effect , and if the warranty conveys with the property.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The roof covering is near or at the end of its estimated useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the roof covering.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The roof covering is past the end of its estimated useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the roof covering.

Two shingle layers: There are two layers of shingles on the roof. Roof structures generally are designed to support a maximum of two layers. When the roofing system requires replacement, both layers will need to be removed prior to installation of new roofing materials.

Asbestos shingles: The roof covering appears to be cement asbestos shingles. Asbestos content can be confirmed only by laboratory analysis. Asbestos cement shingle roofing is brittle and should not be walked on except by qualified, insured roofers. If the roof requires replacement or repair, there are special handling and disposal requirements because of health and safety issues. Check local solid waste authority regarding disposal of the asbestos cement shingles.

Built-up membrane/multi-ply system: A built-up membrane roof covering is a multi-ply system, the longevity of which is dependent on the quality of installation and regular maintenance. The top of the roof covering usually is covered with gravel or rock to reflect ultra-violet light and to protect the roof from mechanical damage. The roof becomes vulnerable as aggregate loosens or exposes the membrane to the sun. Seams may begin to open, followed by leaks. Blisters and bubbles can form where moisture is trapped between the felt plies. Leaks are very difficult to isolate on this type of roof, as water can travel a great distance through the plies before becoming apparent. Flashings, if present, are often covered with roofing materials and cannot be evaluated.

Metal skin appears intact with minimal damage or oil-based covering remaining: The roof’s metal skin appears intact with little apparent damage or oil-based covering remaining. We recommend that you consider an “acrylic-based” approach to metal roof servicing as recommended by many metal roof product manufacturers. Water-based coatings have the advantage of remaining flexible. Oil products become brittle, which shortens their adhesion and effective working life. The purpose of a coating on metal roofing is to protect the metal with a “sacrificial” layer. Brittle cracked oil coatings permit moisture intrusion and will corrode the actual metal.

Metal roofing requires regular coating and maintenance: Metal roofing requires regular coating and maintenance to inhibit rust and corrosion. Avoid asphalt and tar compounds, which trap moisture against the metal and encourage corrosion.

Apply maintenance coating to non-granular single-ply modified bitumen every three to five years: Apply a maintenance coating to non-granular single-ply modified bitumen every three to five years.

Estimated age based on visual clues and condition, exact age not determined:The estimated age of the roofing materials is based on visual clues and condition. Without documentation, the exact age of the roofing cannot be determined. Check with the owner to determine if there is any documentation available, or if there are any warranties in effect regarding the roofing materials and workmanship.

Full scope of roofing system condition not included: The full scope of the roofing system’s condition is not included in this report due to an independent specialist’s evaluation. Refer to the specialist’s report(s) for more information and required actions. Any observations are provided as a courtesy.

Wood shakes and shingles: Wood shakes and shingles are fragile compared to other roofing materials. Therefore, anticipate regular maintenance to prolong the roof’s serviceability. Proper maintenance of this type of roof should include the removal of debris and the periodic coating of the surface with a wood preservative product with a fungicide and some form of ultraviolet protection. Products listed as sealants, water proofers, or plasticizers should not be used. Individually rotted or defective pieces should be replaced as required.

Flashing

Flashings  prevent water intrusion where the roof changes direction or meets another part of the home, e.g. a wall, chimney, or roof penetration. They are also installed at the eaves and sidewalls, where they can prevent water from wrapping under the roofing (drip edge flashings) or driving into the home (kick-out flashings). Roof valleys are also flashed. The majority of roof leaks occur at the flashings. Properly-installed systems rely primarily on a mechanical exclusion of water. Overall repairs using caulks or roofing cement should be considered temporary. The flashing on roofing materials that have a very long EUL should be inspected closely. Slate, and clay or concrete tiles can easily outlast the flashings, especially older installations that used galvanized steel flashing.

Inspect all visible flashings for deterioration, damage, missing or loose sections, gaps, lifted areas, and unsealed exposed nail heads. Nails driven through the exposed flashing is permitted only in certain applications. Inspect all caulked edges for gaps, or deterioration. Modern practices allow counter flashings to be nailed in place and the upper edges caulked.

Step Flashing and Counter Flashing

Step flashing is required where the sloping side of a roof meets a wall, chimney, or skylight. Individual L-shaped pieces are placed on top of each course of the roofing before the next course above is installed. A single piece of flashing should not be used instead of step flashing. It is unreliable and should be reported.

For walls, the step flashings should be installed before the siding. The vertical portions are covered by the siding, leaving only about 2” exposed. On a chimney, or a stucco or masonry home, a counter flashing is used. After all step flashings are in place, the counter flashing is installed. In older or high-quality installations, the top of the counter flashing is bent inwards into a cut groove, or reglet, and caulked. Modern practices nail the counter flashing to the surface and caulk the upper edge. Flashings should also be present at the top of the shingles parallel to a wall or a chimney’s downhill side. The lower portion of the flashing lays on top of the roofing. The vertical portion goes underneath the siding. On a home with solid siding (stucco or masonry) or a masonry chimney, a counter flashing should be installed. The top edge of the counter flashing should be let into a reglet or nailed and caulked.

The step flashing is missing. The lack of this flashing, or the use of a single-piece flashing, will allow leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The counter flashing is missing above the step flashing. This will allow leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The flashing is missing. This will allow leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

There is a gap in the flashing. This can allow water to enter, causing deterioration of the materials behind and under the flashing. The condition of the materials behind and under the flashing could not be determined and hidden damage may exist. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The flashing is loose. This permits water penetration. Secure or replace the flashing.

There is excessive tar or caulk applied at the flashing. This is considered a temporary repair that will fail. Replace the flashing.

The flashing is corroded. It is at the end of its service life and is unreliable. Replace the flashing.

Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashings should be installed at the bottom of any roof slope where the wall or chimney continues past the eave or gutter. They serve to divert water away from the sidewall or chimney and help prevent it from driving into or behind the cladding. Kickout flashings should be an integral part of the roofing/siding installation. They must be behind the siding and step flashing, and under the roofing. They should not be applied on top of shingles or siding. They should have sealed seams, and extend at least 4” to 6” above the eave and away from the sidewall.

The kickout flashing is missing at the juncture of an exterior wall and roof. This can allow water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The kickout flashing is damaged at the juncture of an exterior wall and roof. This can allow water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The kickout flashing is inadequate. It should be installed behind the step flashing and siding, and under the roofing, and project 4″-6″. This can allow water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

Valley Flashing: "Closed" Valleys

Closed valleys can either be “closed cut” or “woven.” Waterproof membranes should be installed in the center of the valley, but this is usually not visible. A woven valley has the shingles from each roof plane extending across the valley in alternating courses. This type of installation can only be done with 3-tab shingles. Each course must extend at least 12” across the valley on to the intersecting roof. No nails can be within 6” of the valley’s center, and the roofing must be pressed into the valley decking so no bridging is present.

Closed cut valleys can be installed with dimensional shingles. Only the bottom course is woven. After that, shingles on the smaller or lower sloped side of the valley are installed. After the one side is shingled, the larger or steeper slope is installed. Those shingles must also extend past the center line of the valley. Then the larger/steeper side shingles are cut back in a straight line at the valley’s center. The upper corner of each shingle is trimmed at a 45° angle to help direct water out of the valley. A line of sealant should be applied under the edge of the top shingles. The steeper roof, or the larger of equal-slope roofs, must always be “on top”.

The closed, woven valley is improperly installed.  The overlap is not correct, and will allow leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The closed, cut valley is improperly installed.  The overlap has been cut back too far, and will allow leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

The closed valley has been repaired with tar or caulk. This is considered a temporary repair that will fail. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

Valley Flashing: "Open" Valleys

Open valleys have metal flashing down the length of the valley. Any upper section must be on top of the lower one. Be alert to any signs of buckling. The bottom edge of the valley flashing should extend at least ¾” beyond the eave, and should extend at least 12” up under each side of shingles. The gap of exposed flashing should be 6” wide at the top of the valley, and widen by 1/8” per foot moving towards the bottom. The upper corner of each shingle is trimmed at a 45° angle to help direct water out of the valley. A line of sealant should be applied under the edge of the shingles.

There is excessive tar or caulk applied at the flashing. This is considered a temporary repair that will fail. Repair or replace the flashing as needed.

The open valley flashing is rusted. This makes it unreliable and prone to leakage. Hire a roofer for repairs or replacements as needed.

Vent Pipe Flashing

These are used where a DWV vent pipe or a flue penetrates the roof. Entry points for electrical service wires at the mast and HVAC linesets will also use them. They should rely on mechanical exclusion of water as it flows down the roof’s slope. The top forms a saddle flashing. It should be under the roofing, along with the side flashing that’s at and above the roof penetration. Below the penetration the lower portion, or skirt, must be on top of the roofing. Any rubber or flexible sections must be intact and free of openings, tears, or deterioration. Excess tar should be reported as a temporary repair. The flashing should lay tightly on the roofing.

The flashing is lifted. This permits water penetration. Secure or replace the flashing.

The flashing is missing. This allow water penetration. Install flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

There is excessive tar or caulk applied at the flashing. This is considered a temporary repair that will fail. Replace the flashing.

The flashing is damaged or deteriorated. This permits water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The flashing is damaged or deteriorated. The repairs are unworkmanlike and are not considered reliable. This permits water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The flashing is improperly installed. This permits water penetration. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

Drip Edge Flashing

Installing drip edge flashing is a roofing best practice, but may not have been required at the time and location of a given installation. Drip edges are installed at the edges of a roof, i.e. the eave and the rake. They serve to move water away from the roof. Water has a tendency to stick to a surface and will wrap around an edge, driving back into the fascia or rake board. Drip edges are shaped to carry the water outward where it will release into the gutter or fall free past the side of the home.

Inspect the flashings to ensure that they are installed on top of the tar paper and below the roofing. It should be well-secured, but fasteners should not be over-driven or backing out. Each section of drip edge should overlap the next. The trim directly below any edge without a flashing should be inspected carefully for deterioration.

The drip edge flashing is loose. This allows water penetration. Repair or replace the flashing.

The drip edge flashing is improperly installed. The roofing should be on top of the flashing. This will allow leaks and damage. Replace the flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

The drip edge flashing is missing. This will allow leaks and damage. Install flashing and repair any damage which may be revealed.

Skylight

Skylights combine the features and challenges of both windows and roof penetrations. Additionally, as windows, they have extra vulnerabilities because they are more horizontal than vertical. They must be installed on a raised “curb”, basically short sidewalls several inches high above the roof’s surface. Installing an acrylic dome directly to the roof decking and under the shingles is unworkmanlike and guaranteed to leak.

Skylights must have any and all flashings appropriate to their installation. This will include step flashings on the sides, saddle flashing at the top under the roofing, and the lower skirt on top of the roofing. Skylights must be acrylic or safety glass. Old-house units may have wired glass. All glass or acrylic must be free of cracks, and have all fasteners installed and intact. Any insulated glass units should be inspected for signs of seal failure. Inspect for any signs of leakage, including at the interior using infrared. Inspect all operable skylights for proper function. Note limitations to testing as appropriate.

Skylight

The skylight glass or dome is damaged. This permits water penetration and is a safety risk. Replace the glass or dome.

The skylight has a failed insulated glass seal. This causes condensation and fogging between the panes.  Replace the insulated glass unit or the skylight as needed.

The skylight window frame is damaged. This permits water penetration. Repair or replace the frame.

The skylight is installed without a raised curb and flashing. This is unreliable and will leak. Hire a contractor to replace the skylight.

There is excessive tar or caulk applied at the flashing. This is considered a temporary repair that will fail. Replace the flashing.

The skylight is leaking. This will allow water damage. Repair or replace the skylight.

Standards of Practice

  • Inspect
    • Structural components, including foundation and framing
    • Structural components in which deterioration is suspected, or where clear indications of possible deterioration exists; probing not required if would damage any finished surface
    • Crawl space and attic areas to the extent possible as determined by the inspector to be readily accessible and safe
    • High vulnerability locations normally covered by insulation or humidity control measures, e.g. crawl space toilet and plumbing penetrations, under exterior doors, deck ledger areas
  • Describe
    • Foundation
    • Floor, wall, ceiling, and roof structures
    • Methods used to inspect under-floor crawl spaces and attics, e.g. “Entered,” “Viewed from access,” “No access”
    • Conditions which limit visibility or accessibility of property’s features or condition (snow/leaf cover, ongoing construction, dangerous animals, suspected hazardous materials, etc.)
    • All buildings or structures present
      • Which buildings or structures are inspected or not inspected
      • Age of inspected buildings (if known)
      • Type (description) of each inspected building
      • Method(s) used to describe the location of features or defects
  • Not required
    • Engineering, architectural services, or analysis
    • Opinion as to adequacy of any structural system or component
    • Inspection of any location if it would damage installed insulation or humidity control system

Foundation

The structural integrity of a home depends on its foundation. Whether the house has perimeter walls or piers, this is what the entire construction rests on and relies upon to carry all the weight down to the footings. A defect here can affect everything above it. Additionally, foundation issues can easily be the most expensive problems to correct.

It doesn’t matter if the foundation is stone, bricks, CMUs, concrete, or wood; everything must be plumb and stacked up properly to prevent uneven forces that can cause stress and failure. Observe at a distance to detect leaning, bowing, or displacement. Look for cracks, damage, and deterioration. Pay attention to water management issues; moisture is the great destroyer. It degrades all but the strongest of building materials, and can undermine the rest, taking away its proper support.

Foundation Water Penetration

Water management around a foundation is critical to its long-term stability. The overwhelming majority of foundation water penetration issues can be attributed to failing to move water away from the structure. It’s the basics: roof runoff control and surface grading. While high water tables can come into play, the problem is rarely “the weather.” Pay attention outside, and carry those observations inside when you inspect.

There are water stains in the basement. This implies conditions conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of water penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is efflorescence in the basement. These white crystalline deposits indicate moisture penetration. This is conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of the penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is water in the basement. This is conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of water penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is efflorescence in the crawl space. These white crystalline deposits indicate moisture penetration. This is conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of the penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is standing water in the crawl space. This is conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of water penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

CMU (Cinder Block)

The foundation’s concrete parge coat is damaged. The parging helps to provide protection against moisture intrusion. Repair the parging; hire a contractor as needed.

Firewood or wood debris is piled against the siding. This is conducive to wood destroying insect activity. Remove the firewood or debris.

There is minor cracking in the foundation wall. No settlement or displacement is visible. Repair and seal the cracks.

There are holes present in the foundation wall. Unsealed holes left in the foundation may allow water infiltration. Fill and seal the holes.

The mortar for the foundation walls is missing or deteriorated. This will allow moisture penetration and further damage. Repair the mortar joints.

There is a lintel missing where an opening has been made in the foundation. Lintels are required to carry the structural loads around the opening once the wall components are removed. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

There is a damaged or deteriorated lintel in the foundation wall. This can affect the lintel’s support for the masonry above an opening in the foundation wall. Repair or replace the lintel.

There are vertical cracks in the foundation. Vertical cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are step cracks in the foundation wall. Step cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are step cracks in the foundation wall. Step cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Repairs are present. You should obtain any warranty information available. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and repairs as needed.

There are horizontal cracks in the foundation wall. This indicates excessive lateral pressures and wall failure. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are horizontal cracks and bowing in the foundation wall. This indicates excessive lateral pressures and wall failure. Repairs have been performed. You should obtain any warranty information available. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and repairs as needed.

Brick/Brick and Block

The foundation’s concrete parge coat is damaged. The parging helps to provide protection against moisture intrusion. Repair the parging; hire a contractor as needed.

The mortar for the foundation walls is missing or deteriorated. This will allow moisture penetration and further damage. Repair the mortar joints.

There is a lintel missing where an opening has been made in the foundation. Lintels are required to carry the structural loads around the opening once the wall components are removed. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

There is a damaged or deteriorated lintel in the foundation wall. This can affect the lintel’s support for the masonry above an opening in the foundation wall. Repair or replace the lintel.

There are step cracks in the foundation wall. Step cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are horizontal cracks and bowing in the foundation wall. This indicates excessive lateral pressures and wall failure. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

The foundation wall is out of plumb or leaning. This will compromise the load bearing capacity of the wall. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

Slab on Grade

Firewood or wood debris is piled against the siding. This is conducive to wood destroying insect activity. Move the firewood and debris.

The slab is damaged. This can allow water penetration and further deterioration. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The slab is being undermined. This can allow settlement and damage. Hire a contractor to correct the conducive conditions and make repairs as needed.

The slab has settled; the reason for this is not known. Action is needed to prevent possible ongoing damage. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

Concrete: Pre-Cast and Poured

There is minor cracking in the foundation wall. No settlement or displacement is visible. Repair and seal the cracks.

There are vertical cracks in the foundation. Vertical cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are vertical cracks in the foundation wall. Vertical cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling.  Repairs have been performed. You should obtain any warranty information available. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and repairs as needed.

There are horizontal cracks and bowing in the foundation wall. This indicates excessive lateral pressures and wall failure. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There are horizontal cracks and bowing in the foundation wall. This indicates excessive lateral pressures and wall failure. Repairs have been performed. You should obtain any warranty information available. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and repairs as needed.

There is a diagonal crack in the foundation wall and differential movement on either side of the crack. Diagonal cracks often indicate a lack of support under the foundation at that area. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There is a diagonal crack in the foundation wall and differential movement on either side of the crack. Diagonal cracks often indicate a lack of support under the foundation at that area. Repairs have been performed. You should obtain any warranty information available. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and repairs as needed.

Stone

The mortar for the foundation walls is missing or deteriorated. This will allow moisture penetration and further damage. Repair the mortar joints.

There is a lintel missing where an opening has been made in the foundation. Lintels are required to carry the structural loads around the opening once the wall components are removed. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

There are vertical cracks in the foundation. Vertical cracks indicate that the foundation has settled or is settling. Hire a contractor to evaluate the cracks and provide repairs as needed.

There is differential settlement in the foundation. This implies a structural failure. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

Foundation Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: Some areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Painted/sealed cracks hide evidence of moisture intrusion: The foundation has been painted. Paint can seal cracks and/or obscure evidence of moisture intrusion. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Covered with insulation: The foundation is covered with insulation. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: Finished areas limit the inspection. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Maintained by local association, not inspected: The foundation appears to be maintained by local association and, therefore, is not inspected.

Information Statements

Expansive soils prevalent: Expansive soils are prevalent in this geographic area. Expansive soils, often referred to as marine clay or shrink/swell soils, can affect a home’s structure because changes in moisture content in the soil cause expansion and contraction with enough force to move and damage foundation walls, slabs, and driveways. We inspect visible areas of the structure. We do not determine if movement occurs because of expansive soils nor do we conduct soil testing. To determine the presence of expansive soils, hire a geo-technical engineer to conduct a soil test.

Wood foundation, estimating service life is difficult: There is a wood foundation. Estimating the service life of a wood foundation is difficult. Pressure treated lumber is expected to have about a 30-year ground contact rating, but this is dependent on the grade and treatment of the construction materials. Drainage issues are critically important for homes with wood foundations. Periodic maintenance of surface and roof water drainage components, such as proper surface grading and gutter systems, is required.

Beams

Beams are primary horizontal structural members, supporting entire sides of the floor system. Without beams, floor joists would have to be able to span from one foundation wall to the opposite wall. A beam supported by piers allows joists to be half the length, and prevents the need for a foundation wall in the middle. As they are basically standing in for a foundation wall, any problems can have widespread and even catastrophic implications.

Beams inside a finished house are often not visible; problems must be inferred. Remember where the loads line up from the roof downward. Are there are openings rather than walls or columns below those load paths? A post and beam should be there. Look for cracks or sagging in the finished surfaces around the beams, or in the visible beams themselves. Inspect for proper bearing support when possible: 3″ on masonry and 1.5″ on wood or metal. Beams must be have positive connections to their support posts. Look for stains, damage, twisting, deterioration, and excess or improper notching or boring. Beams built up from dimensional lumber must be tightly-constructed.

Wood

The beam is cracked or damaged. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the beam.

The beam is notched or has holes drilled that are beyond acceptable limits. This reduces the beam’s load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the beam.

The beam has inadequate bearing. This affects its overall ability to carry structural loads. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

A splice in the beam is not over a pier. This can affect its load bearing capacity. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacement as needed.

The beam is twisted or rotated. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the beam.

The beam is deteriorated. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. The cause of the deterioration should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to repair or replace the beam.

The beam is sagging. This indicates that excessive loads are being applied. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to repair or replace the beam.

The beam is crushed. This indicates that deterioration is present and/or excessive loads are being applied. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to repair or replace the beam.

The boards in the built-up beam are not tightly connected together, and the splices are not offset. This prevents them from acting as a single unit and affects the beam’s load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacements as needed.

There is an excessive number of shims installed at the beam. Excessive use of shims is poor building practice and can affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to make required repairs.

The shims are loose at the beam. This reduces the bearing capacity of the beam. Hire a contractor to make required repairs.

There are additional, non-original structural supports and alterations. The reason for the installation of the additional structural supports is not apparent. Discuss this with the homeowner. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

Steel

Wood shims have been installed under the steel beam. Dimensional lumber, composite, or steel plates are needed for stability. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The beam has inadequate bearing. This affects its overall ability to carry structural loads. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

The support column is not properly connected to the steel beam. This can allow the support to shift and affect the structural stability. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The steel beam is rusted. The underlying conditions causing this should be corrected to prevent further deterioration that will affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The steel beam has shifted and is pressing on the foundation wall. This affects its load-bearing capacity and the floor system’s overall structural stability. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs or replacement as needed.

The beam is deteriorated. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. The cause of the deterioration should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to repair or replace the beam.

Beams Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Areas inaccessible and/or not visible due to design, finished surfaces, materials: Some areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to design, finished surfaces, and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Information Statements

Minor horizontal cracks referred to as “checking,” generally not serious: Beams have minor horizontal cracks referred to as “checking,” which generally are not of serious concern. Solid wood beams typically form horizontal check cracks because they are installed when the wood is green and the outer surfaces dry out at a faster rate than the interior of the beam. Many such cracks occur without compromising the load-carrying capacity of the beam.

Grade beams employed in construction, water can travel along steel lintels: There are grade beams employed in the construction of the home. Water can travel along steel lintels used within the grade beams and it is common for water to seep under a grade beam and pool along the basement/crawl space intersecting wall. Pay particular attention to external surface drainage that is near the grade beams.

Piers/Posts

Piers and posts are upright columns that carry the weight of the home’s structure down into the ground and to the footings. In most houses, they are inside the foundation walls, where they support the beams and point-loads. Some buildings use piers spaced at regular intervals instead of a perimeter foundation wall, so-called “pier and beam” construction.

Most pier and post inspection is straightforward. Are they plumb, well-centered under their loads, and in good repair? Do they go into the ground, beyond where you can probe, presumably to a footer below the local frost line? The trickier part is determining if they are in the correct location. You should inspect the basement or crawl space last. When in the floors above and the attic, pay attention to where the structure is; are the loads following a line down to the pier or post? Is there unusual sagging near a pier that indicates the load path is missing the support? Remember: adjustable screw jacks (“lally posts”) are generally only approved for temporary use.

Piers

The pier is not plumb. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The pier is damaged. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The pier is deteriorated. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The pier does not have a footing that extends below the frost line. This can affect its load carrying ability. Surface blocks are not adequate. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The pier is settled. This can affect its load carrying ability. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The CMU (cinder blocks) are improperly installed at the pier. They are on their sides. CMUs should be installed vertically with the cells perpendicular to the floor and the beam. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

The CMU (cinder blocks) are improperly installed at the pier. The open cells have not been filled with grout as required by accepted practice. This affects its structural strength. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacement as needed.

The pier installation is unworkmanlike. Its reliability is questionable. Installations should adhere to accepted building practices. Hire a contractor to replace the pier.

Posts

The post is not plumb. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

The post is damaged. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

The post is deteriorated. This can affect its load-carrying ability. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

The post does not have a footing that extends below the frost line. This can affect its load carrying ability. Surface blocks or sections of a floor slab without a pier are not adequate. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

The post is settled. This can affect its load carrying ability. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

The post installation is unworkmanlike. Its reliability is questionable. Installations should adhere to accepted building practices. Hire a contractor to replace the post.

An adjustable screw jack is installed as a support post. These are considered temporary supports. Hire a contractor to replace the post.