Floor

The structural importance of floors is obvious; the floor keeps us from falling into the crawl space, and it’s where we place our furniture. Sagging, soft spots, bounciness,  and tilting are noticeable. What’s not as obvious are the flaws present that aren’t apparent until they’re at or near the failure point. The most common structural floor problems are water damage and improper repairs. Your eyes and feet are the best floor inspection tools. Inside a room, view as much of the floor as possible to see tilting or dips. Inspect the floor at the molding to reveal where the surface has dropped. Press your foot down at water-vulnerable areas, e.g. exterior entries and toilets. A large marble or level can help confirm issues.

Always connect the dots: why do I see this sag? When under the floor, you should move aside insulation in critical areas, e.g.  exterior entries, toilets, tubs, refrigerators. Repairs must be workmanlike. “Sistered” joists must be full size, long enough, and tightly adhered. A surface block and post are not OK in place of a foundation support. Probe for rot!

The joist is cracked or damaged. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

The joist has inadequate bearing. This affects its overall ability to carry structural loads. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

The joist has inadequate bearing. End nailing is not sufficient; properly-installed hanger hardware is needed. This affects its overall ability to carry structural loads. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

There is missing bridging between the floor joists. Bridging helps to prevent the joists from twisting. Hire a contractor to add bridging between the joists.

The joist is twisted or rotated. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

The joist is notched or has holes drilled that are beyond acceptable limits. This reduces the joist’s load-bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

The joist is deteriorated. This can affect its load-bearing capacity. The cause of the deterioration should be identified. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the joist.

The joist is crushed. This indicates that deterioration is present and/or excessive loads are being applied. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The repairs to the floor frame are unworkmanlike. Repairs should adhere to accepted building practices. Surface blocks and posts cannot be used instead of foundation supports. Screw jacks are temporary devices. Hire a contractor to properly repair the floor frame.

The repairs to the floor frame are unworkmanlike. Repairs should adhere to accepted building practices. “Sister” repairs must use full-sized lumber, tightly adhered, and extending at least 1/3 the joist’s length past the damage. A sister must have one end on a bearing surface. Hire a contractor to properly repair the floor frame.

The floor framing sags excessively. This implies failure of the floor frame or other structural elements. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

There is evidence of fire damage. The inspector cannot determine the extent of the damage or the repairs. Ask the homeowner about the fire damage; records of the damage can usually be obtained through the local fire department, and a record of repairs, along with any applicable municipal permits and approvals, can usually be obtained through the municipal building department.

There is a cut truss. A truss is part of an engineered system and should be altered or repaired only with the approval of the manufacturer or a structural engineer. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the truss under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

The flange of an I-Joist has been notched. Notches are not allowed in the top or bottom flange. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the I-joist under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

The truss has inadequate bearing. End nailing is not sufficient; properly-installed hanger hardware is needed. This affects its overall ability to carry structural loads. Hire a contractor to repair or replace the truss under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

There are missing “squash blocks.” These are load-transferring uprights that strengthen engineered joist installations where point loads are being transferred to the foundation. Hire a contractor to install squash blocks under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

There are minor cracks in the floor slab. Repair and seal the cracks.

There are cracks in the floor slab that are wider than 1/4″. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

There are cracks and differential settlement greater than 1″ in the floor slab. The cause of the settlement should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The garage floor and the living space floor are at the same height. Current standards require the living space to be installed no less than one step up from the garage to protect the living space from fumes. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The sub-floor is stained, indicating a leak. The cause for the stains should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The sub-floor is deteriorated. This weakens the floor structure. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

The repairs to the sub-floor are unworkmanlike. Repairs should adhere to accepted building practices. Hire a contractor to properly repair the sub-floor.

Weyerhaeuser “Flak Jacket” TJI Truss Joists are engineered I-joists manufactured with a fire-resistant coating. In products manufactured after 12.1.2016 the coating included formaldehyde-based resin. Weyerhaeuser acknowledged this after customer feedback noting odors in the homes. In higher concentrations formaldehyde can cause eye, nose, and throat irritation. In very high concentrations it can cause headaches, dizziness, and nausea. Not surprisingly, Class Action lawsuits are being filed.


Scope of the Issue:

As noted above, this only affects product manufactured after 12.1.2016. The company said it has halted all production, sales, and shipments of the product, and is collecting unused product from customers. Weyerhaeuser considers it highly unlikely that the floor structure above crawlspaces are involved. They estimate that <2,500 basement structures are affected. The locations include New Jersey, Colorado, Delaware, Minnesota, New York, and Pennsylvania.

Inspecting:

This will be a rare discovery, and can be reported with a custom Defect Statement. Clients should be advised to research at the website:  https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/builderfj/  and further educate themselves.

Identifying TJI joists that ARE affected:

Identifying TJI joists that are NOT affected:

Floor joist deterioration is probably the most common structural defect. Improper joist repairs are at the top of the list for for unacceptable remediations. The correct term for a substandard job is “unworkmanlike.” This is a legally-recognized designation that has court precedence, and is preferred over “amateur” or similar words. A strict reading of current model Code calls for repairs that “shall conform to the requirements for a new structure”, i.e. complete joist replacement. That said, most models as adopted and administered allow for “sister” and post and beam repairs. Doing them right is where many contractors fall short.

The most important quality of a joist repair is re-establishing support onto a foundation-level base. Regardless of the method used, it must have a proper footing that extends below the local frost line. Surface block supports are unacceptable. Let’s look at this and at the other qualities needed. Note that, while often not enforced, most code departments require a permit for even a single joist repair. You must be familiar with what is and is not allowed in your jurisdiction.


Total Joist Replacement

This is a premium method. The replacement joist must be the same size as the original, have proper bearing on the foundation or beam at both ends (1.5″ on wood and 3″ on masonry), and be in full supporting contact with all load surfaces above.

A “pocketed” joist may require a full replacement


Sister Repairs

A “sister” repair attaches a new board to the old one in order to provide solid structure where the original joist is damaged. There are several requirements to doing this properly.

  • The sister must be the same size as the original, e.g. a damaged 2×10 uses a 2×10 sister.
  • The sister must be tightly attached to the original with multiple, spaced and staggered fasteners. Bolts or structural  screws are preferred over nails. Inadequate connections or a loose bond will not transfer the load from the sister to the original.
  • The sister must have one end on a foundation-level bearing surface. It can’t be entirely in the middle of the original.
  • The sister must extend at least 1/3 of the overall joist’s length past the damaged area.

These sisters are completely inadequate

Too loose; it won’t transfer the load

These sisters are too short

Too short; inadequate fasteners


Headers

If a joist has to be cut in the middle of its span, e.g. to accommodate a plumbing stack or HVAC duct, then headers must be constructed around the obstacle. These allow the intact joists on either side of the missing section to carry the loads of the cut joists.

No headers


Posts and Beams

An acceptable alternative to bearing on the original foundation or beam is to install a new beam system next to the original bearing point. These must be constructed in a workmanlike manner. Note that most code inspectors will only accept surface support systems when designed and signed-off on by a structural engineer.

  • The posts must be be set on foundation-level footers that are below the local frost line. Surface blocks are not acceptable.
  • The new beam should be as close to the original bearing surface as possible to avoid a cantilever.
  • Posts and beams must be adequately rated and installed in sufficient spacing. Everything must be plumb and level.
  • Dimensional lumber posts and screw jacks are not acceptable.

Screw jacks without footings

A great example of “unworkmanlike”

Floor Limitation and Information Statements

Covered with insulation: The flooring is covered with insulation. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: Finished areas limit the inspection. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Floor framing squeaks, not a structural deficiency: There are squeaks in the floor framing. Squeaks typically are the result of loose nails or other fasteners pulling in and out of the floor wood frame members, or joists rubbing against the sub-flooring. Squeaks do not constitute a structural deficiency.

Manufactured trusses composed of wood members and metal gusset plates: The floor framing includes manufactured trusses which are composed of wood members and metal gusset plates. Such trusses are not designed to be altered.

Moderate sloping/related interior door frame distortions throughout house, within acceptable parameters: There is moderate sloping in the floors and related interior door frame distortions throughout the house. The extent of sloping and distortion is within acceptable parameters for a building of this age and type construction, and appear to be a function of normal sagging in the floor system. No deflection or recent large crack patterns are visible to indicate that the conditions are ongoing. Thin diagonal wall cracks may continue to develop at the corners of some interior door frames; such cracks are considered cosmetic unless the cracks widen appreciably.

Wall

The walls of a house are not just upright barriers that separate the interior from the outside, or one room from another. They are vertical load-bearing structures that must support the roof, the floors, everything that’s on them, and carry that weight down to the foundation. They must be able to resist the forces of wind, driving rain, and sometimes even seismic events. Openings such as doors and windows must be constructed properly so there are not any weak points that would allow sagging, racking, or failure.

It is vital to inspect the wall structure from the exterior. There you can view from a distance and more easily see any leaning or bowing. If a wall is not plumb, the downward forces will cause stress and lead to failure. Water can enter a house anywhere and damage the structure, but this is most likely at the top and bottom, and at openings. Always report stains; measure for moisture and connect the dots for any implications. Every effort should be made to view the sill plates and studs in the basement or crawlspace, and the top plates in the attic. Look for sagging or displacement at windows and doors. Inspect for and report cracks.

The bearing wall is bowing. This indicates a structural failure. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The bearing wall is cracked and shows lateral movement. This can affect its ability to carry the necessary structural loads. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

Studs in the bearing wall have been cut. The repairs are unworkmanlike, and will affect the wall’s structural integrity. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The bearing wall’s top plate has been notched beyond acceptable limits. This affects its load bearing capacity. Hire a contractor to provide repairs as needed.

The sill plate is deteriorated. This can affect the wall’s ability to carry the necessary structural loads. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The top plate is deteriorated. This can affect the wall’s ability to carry the necessary structural loads. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The bearing wall is deteriorated. This can affect its ability to carry the necessary structural loads. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The bearing wall is bowing. Horizontal cracking is evident. This indicates a structural failure. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The bearing wall is cracked and shows signs of lateral movement or settlement. This indicates a structural failure. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The lintel over an opening is missing or deteriorated. This will allow settlement and failure. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

The bearing wall is deteriorated. This can affect its ability to carry the necessary structural loads. The cause for this should be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to provide repairs as needed.

Roof

The roof is the upper-most portion of a home’s structure. It must support the “live” loads of workers and shifting materials during construction or renovations, wind forces,  and changing environmental loads such as rain and snow. “Dead” loads, the relatively constant weight of the final construction, must be accommodated. The roof must also provide an adequate base for the waterproof skin that is the roof covering. Even a slight shift in the roof framing can affect the covering’s integrity and allow leaks that will cause damage and further deterioration.

You should gather information when outside that guides your interior inspection. Safety is first when in the attic, but every effort should be made to view as much of the space as possible. Look for damaged, deflected, or deteriorated rafters and trusses. Any staining should be reported. Separations between rafters and ridges, missing collar ties, improper “sister” repairs and excess notching at rafters is notable. Remember that trusses are engineered devices, and must be complete, with all members and gusset plates intact. Field alterations should be reported.

There are moisture stains on the framing. This indicates water penetration. Identify and mitigate the source of water penetration.

There are damaged rafters. This affects the ability of roofing structure to properly support the roof’s weight. Hire a contractor to evaluate the rafters and to make repairs as required.

There are deteriorated rafters. This affects the ability of roofing structure to properly support the roof’s weight. The cause of the deterioration must be identified. Hire a contractor to evaluate the rafters and to make repairs as required.

There are sagging rafters. This implies an inadequate structure that may not be able to support the roof’s weight. Hire a contractor to evaluate the rafters and to make repairs as required.

There are rafters that are notched beyond acceptable limits. This compromises the load bearing capacity of the rafter. Hire a contractor to evaluate the rafters and to make repairs as required.

There are improperly repaired rafters. “Sister” repairs must the same size lumber, have one end on a bearing surface, and extend at least 1/3 the length of the rafter past the damage. They must be tightly attached with staggered fasteners. Sisters cannot be entirely in the middle of a rafter. Hire a contractor to make repairs as required.

The horizontal floor supports or the collar ties have been cut or removed. This is often done for access or new installations. It weakens the roof structure and can allow the roof to flatten and spread outwards. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

Rafters are pulling away from the ridge board. This indicates a possible overall settlement in the roof structure. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The ridge board is damaged. This can allow settlement and affect the stability of the overall roof structure. Hire a contractor for and evaluation and repairs as needed.

The ridge beam is too narrow, and the rafters are not cut at the correct angle. The entire cut end of the rafters should have complete bearing support. This can cause the rafters to crack. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

There is deflection or sagging in the roof system. This implies an inadequate structure that may not be able to support the roof’s weight. Hire a contractor to evaluate the deflection and to make repairs as required.

There are damaged truss members. Trusses are engineered systems which rely on the integrity of all of components for proper function. Hire a contractor to replace the truss under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

There are cut or field-altered truss members. Trusses are engineered systems which rely on the integrity of all of components for proper function. Hire a contractor to replace the truss under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

There are loose or damaged gusset plates. Trusses are engineered systems which rely on the integrity of all of components for proper function. Hire a contractor to repair the gussets under the guidance of a truss or structural engineer.

There is evidence of fire damage. The inspector cannot determine the extent of the damage or the repairs. Ask the homeowner about the fire damage; records of the damage can usually be obtained through the local fire department, and a record of repairs, along with any applicable municipal permits and approvals, can usually be obtained through the municipal building department.

Roof Limitation and Information Statements

Covered with insulation: The roof is covered with insulation. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: Some areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: Finished areas limit the inspection of roof framing. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Blocked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The attic entrance is blocked, which prevents entry and inspection of the roof structure.

Locked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The attic entrance is locked, which prevents entry and inspection of the roof structure.

Vaulted/cathedral ceiling: There is a vaulted or cathedral ceiling, which limits the inspection due to lack of access for evaluation of the limited spaces between ceiling and the underside of the roof.

Access too small, no entry/inspection: The entrance is too small for access, which prevents entry and an inspection of the roof structure.

Roof maintained by local association, not inspected: The roof appears to be maintained by local association and, therefore, is not inspected.

Radiant barrier installed, inspection limited: The roof structure has a radiant barrier installed. This prevents viewing the entire roof framing; the inspection is limited.

Manufactured trusses composed of wood members and metal gusset plates: The roof framing includes manufactured trusses which are composed of wood members and metal gusset plates. Such trusses are not designed to be altered.

Roof Sheathing

Intact roof sheathing is essential for both the integrity of the roof covering, as well as the overall roof structure. Roofing materials will not secure properly to deteriorated sheathing. The sheathing stabilizes the roof framing, adding strength to it and creating a complete system. While safety comes first, an effort should be made to view as much of the roof sheathing as possible.

Inspect for any signs of water penetration. Stains, deterioration, openings to daylight, damaged or loose boards, and delaminated plywood should be reported. The presence of suspected fire-retardant plywood (FRT plywood) should be reported. Inspect for any significant number of fasteners that have missed attaching the roof decking to the rafter or truss. Look for “H-Clips” on sheet sheathing at the mid-point between rafters or trusses. They are advised, but not absolutely required, on sheathing <7/16″ installed on 24″ centers.

There are moisture stains on the sheathing. This indicates water penetration. Identify and mitigate the source of water penetration.

There is damaged sheathing. This affects the strength of the sheathing and the proper installation of the roofing materials. The cause of the damage must be identified. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

There is buckled or sagging sheathing. This affects the strength of the sheathing and the proper installation of the roofing materials. Replace the sheathing.

There is delaminated sheathing. This affects the strength of the sheathing and the proper installation of the roofing materials. Replace the sheathing.

There is deteriorated sheathing. This affects the strength of the sheathing and the proper installation of the roofing materials. The cause of the deterioration must be identified. Hire a roofing contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

There are missing H-Clips at the edges of the roof sheathing. Clips function to anchor the sheathing sections to one another and prevent sagging. Replace the fasteners as needed.

Fire-rated materials are missing in the first 4′ of roof sheathing next to the party wall. This is required to prevent flame spread from the adjacent unit. Install fire-rated materials as needed.

The roof sheathing appears to contain fire-retardant plywood (FRT plywood). This older product is subject to deterioration and weakening due to heat buildup in the attic. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs/replacements as needed.

Roof Sheathing Limitation and Information Statements

Covered with insulation: The sheathing is covered with insulation. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: Finished areas limit the inspection. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: All or part of the attic is finished, which limits the inspection. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The sheathing is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the sheathing.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The sheathing is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the sheathing.

Attic

The “attic” in a house is any area between the home’s roof and the ceiling of a habitable space. If there is enough room to move about freely, i.e. not a cathedral ceiling construction, access should be provided. These can be hatches, pull-down steps, or a permanent stairway. Many systems can be evaluated here, including the roofing, structure, insulation, and HVAC. Any limitations created by the structure, height, hazardous conditions, and finished spaces should be reported. A lack of access should be reported.

Hatches should be well-sealed and preferably insulated, although older construction did not require this. Stairs or ladders should be in good repair and acceptable for safe use. Any access in a garage should maintain the required fire rating of the overall ceiling or wall. Inspect to ensure that the access opening does not compromise the structure, especially when trusses are installed. An attic should not have openings to the exterior that can allow pest entry.

There is no access to the attic. The entry is locked or sealed. The conditions inside are undetermined. This prevents any entry necessary for repairs or inspection. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed to allow access to the attic.

The seal or insulation at the attic access is inadequate. This allows energy loss and permits moisture to enter the attic. Repair or replace the access hatch or seal, or add insulation as needed.

The attic access hatch cover is not fire rated. This condition creates a breach in the existing fire rated ceiling or wall. Replace the cover with a fire-rated cover.

The pull-down stairs have loose or missing hardware. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the hardware.

The pull-down stairs are not cut to the proper length. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

The pull-down stairs are damaged. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

The pull-down stairs are improperly installed. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

There are gaps large enough to allow bats, birds, vermin and insects to enter. This is a health concern. Hire a contractor to make required repairs.

Attic Limitation and Information Statements

Covered by insulation, no entry/inspection: The attic access is covered by insulation, preventing entry. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: Some attic areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Finished areas, no view behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions: All or part of the attic is finished, which limits the inspection. The inspector does not inspect behind walls, above ceilings, or other obstructions which obstruct the inspector’s view.

Blocked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The attic entrance is blocked, which prevents entry and inspection of the attic.

Locked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The attic entrance is locked, which prevents entry and inspection of the attic.

Access too small, no entry/inspection: The entrance is too small for access, which prevents entry and inspection.

Inaccessible, no entry/inspection: The attic is inaccessible, which prevents an inspection.

Attic maintained by local association, not inspected: The attic appears to be maintained by local association and, therefore, is not inspected.

Access sealed, no entry/inspection: The hatch to the attic is sealed. Access to the interior is not possible. Permission has not been given to take actions necessary to complete the inspection, e.g., cutting the sealant. Evaluate the attic when access is possible.

Crawl Space

Any home with a crawl space must have a viable entry that allows ready access to the below-floor space. It is essential to be able to inspect this area to the fullest extent possible. Problems revealed there include the most significant and expensive that can occur. While safety is paramount, inspectors are encouraged to enter all crawl spaces. The Standards of Practice dictate entry except when there is less than 24 inches of vertical clearance between components and the ground, or with an access opening smaller than 16 inches by 24 inches. You should never crawl through standing water; it may be electrified or contaminated by sewage. Be alert to animals and dangerous insects, e.g. black widow spiders, bees, etc.

There is no access to the crawl space, or the access is sealed or blocked. The conditions inside are undetermined. This prevents any entry necessary for repairs or inspection. Hire a contractor to add access entry to the crawl space.

The crawl space access cover is damaged. This permits energy loss, and allows moisture and animals to enter the crawl space. Repair or replace the cover.

There are gaps large enough to allow bats, birds, vermin and insects to enter. This is a health concern. Hire a contractor to make required repairs.

The crawl space access cover is missing. This permits energy loss, and allows moisture and animals to enter the crawl space. Replace the cover.

There is trash and debris in the crawl space. This is a conducive condition for pests and wood destroying insect infestation, and impedes proper access for inspecting and servicing. Clear the debris from the crawl space.

There is efflorescence in the crawl space. These white crystalline deposits indicate moisture penetration. This is conducive to mold formation and damage. The source of the penetration must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is standing water in the crawl space. This can cause structural damage and health concerns. The source of the water must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

Crawl Space Limitation and Information Statements

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: Some crawl space areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Covered by insulation, no entry/inspection: The crawl space access is covered with insulation. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Blocked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The entrance is blocked, which prevents entry and inspection of the crawl space.

Locked entrance, no entry/inspection of roof structure: The entrance is locked, which prevents entry and inspection of the crawl space.

Access too small, no entry/inspection: The entrance is too small for access, which prevents entry and inspection.

Inaccessible, no entry/inspection: The crawl space is inaccessible, which prevents entry and inspection.

Crawl space maintained by local association, not inspected: The crawl space appears to be maintained by local association and, therefore, is not inspected.

Other

The component Structure – Other is where we report Wood Destroying Insects and Organisms (WDI and WDO). We use this section because the evidence and damage can occur across several different structural components. WDI includes termites, powder post beetles, old house borers, carpenter ants, and carpenter bees. WDO brings wood destroying fungus into the picture. We will not address carpenter bees here because their activity and damage is rarely structural.

It is essential that you report WDI/WDO using language that clearly states that the extent of any activity or damage cannot be determined. Defect statements for WDI specifically do not “name the insect.” This is not necessary, and may be restricted by regulations to licensed specialists. Any signs of chronic excess moisture in a crawl space requires that you inspect and probe carefully for damage, as well as reporting the moisture conditions in the “Insulation and Ventilation / Humidity Control” section.

Termites, at least the ones we are concerned with, eat wood. They are responsible for billions of dollars in damage to US homes every year. We can broadly separate termites into 2 types: subterranean and drywood.

Subterranean termites can be found throughout the country. Their activity can often be identified by the mud “shelter tubes” between the ground and their food supply, i.e. the wooden parts of the house. These shelter tubes can be identified across a crawlspace. You can also often see the dirt of the tubes at the foundation sill plate, between framing members, and in damaged wood. Additionally, you may see discarded pairs of equal-sized wings on window sills from “swarmers.” This occurs when a colony expands, but doesn’t absolutely mean there’s an infestation in the home.

Drywood termites, found in the southern and south coastal states,  don’t require shelter tubes. It’s not unusual for them to completely destroy a framing member without any outward signs. Probing is always required during an inspection. The feces, or pellets, from drywood termites is distinctive and may be the only visible sign. Remember: we do not report wood destroying insects by name.


Subterranean Termites and Shelter Tubes

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity and damage. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

Drywood Termite Pellets

Termite “Swarmers” and Wings

Powder post beetles are second only to termites in WDI damage. There are 3 groups of beetles. Lyctids and Bostrichids primarily infest hardwoods, e.g. flooring, furniture, and paneling. Anobiids also infest softwoods, and are responsible for framing damage. The beetles do their damage unseen within the wood while in the larval stage. The small exit holes they create when emerging as adults is the main telltale sign. The other is the fine flour-like wood powder, or frass, that comes out of the holes.

A joist damaged by powder post beetles can sometimes be pulled apart by hand. That’s the bad news. The good news is that the kiln drying treatment for modern dimensional lumber will kill the beetles. While poor storage can allow a reinfestation, generally speaking newer homes don’t have structural damage from Anobiid beetles. The easiest key for identification is to remember “PP” for Powder Post beetles; the exit holes are “Pin Point”, about as big as a pencil lead. Always probe suspected areas! You can also look for the frass. New frass will be bright in color, while old activity frass will have darkened. Remember: we do not report wood destroying insects by name.


There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity and damage. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

Contrary to their name, “Old House Borers” are beetles that are more likely to be found in newer homes. This is because they generally attack softwoods, e.g. pine, spruce, during the storage stage. Higher humidity is a conducive condition. In some southern states old house borer damage is as serious as that of powder post beetles and even termites. Any individual framing member, even in an attic, can be affected.

These larger beetles are usually only detected by their exit holes as they emerge from the wood. For identification purposes, remember “OH“: Old House borers make Oval Holes when they exit. These holes are about 1/4″ across. It is also possible that you can actually hear the larvae feeding inside the wood. They make a clicking or rasping sound. Always probe any area where exit holes are noted.  Remember: we do not report wood destroying insects by name.


There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity and damage. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They hollow it out, creating galleries in which to raise their young. This can also occur in foam insulation. They are attracted to soft, moist wood, so water intrusion is a primary conducive condition. Inspect carefully in these locations. From the moist area they can move onto sound wood. While structural damage is generally not as great as for termites and beetles, it can be an issue. Nests inside a house are frequently “satellite” nests; the Queen and the main colony will likely be outside in a woodpile or the rotted area of a tree or stump.

Carpenter ants can be black, brown, or red. It’s more common to see a few large ants rather than a lot, unless you disturb a nest. A trail of many small ants inside the home is probably not carpenter ants. During the “swarmer” flight stage, they may leave behind double, unevenly-sized wings. As with termites, this does not absolutely mean there’s an infestation. The ants have bent antennae, a single node between the thorax and abdomen, and hairs on the abdomen. The frass that they kick out from their galleries is coarse and stringy. Always probe around areas of concern. Remember, we do not report wood destroying insects by name.


Identifying Carpenter Ants


There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.


Carpenter Ant Frass: Possible Damage

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying insect activity and damage. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire a pest specialist for further evaluation and required action.

Wood Destroying Fungus requires chronic, elevated moisture levels to thrive. This is why water intrusion into a poorly-managed crawl space is an ideal scenario for significant problems in humid climates. The warm, moist exterior air enters the crawl space, and condenses into liquid on the cooler surfaces such as the framing members. Floor joists can be heavily affected where exposed, but clean where covered by insulation. It is essential that we identify conducive conditions and the early signs, as well as damage.

Fiberglass insulation that is hanging and “stringy”, or damp with condensation, is a warning sign. It must be reported in “Insulation and Ventilation – Humidity Control.” Fungus spreads by spores and thread-like filaments called Hyphae. When staining, spores, or hyphae are visible on the framing, a wood destroying organism must be reported in “Structure – Other.” A “treatment” is not the answer, especially not bleach or Timbor. The underlying conditions must be corrected. Left unchecked, extensive damage will occur. Remember, we always use the word “possible” or “suspected” when reporting molds, mildews, or fungi.


Signs of Conducive Conditions

“Stringy” fiberglass from condensation

Condensation cannot be ignored

The fiberglass protects the wood from condensation


The thread-like filaments are Hyphae


There is evidence of possible wood-destroying organism activity. Molds and fungi are usually the result of chronic excess humidity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire an environmental specialist for further evaluation and required action. Treatment alone will likely not be adequate to prevent a recurrence. The underlying conditions must be addressed.

There is evidence of possible wood-destroying organism activity and damage. Molds and fungi are usually the result of chronic excess humidity. The extent of the activity or any damage present is not determined during a home inspection. Hire an environmental specialist for further evaluation and required action. Treatment alone will likely not be adequate to prevent a recurrence. The underlying conditions must be addressed.

Standards of Practice

  • Inspect
    • Roof drainage systems
    • Surface downspout extensions
    • Grading and surface drainage (swales, culverts, yard drains, etc.) which could adversely affect the building
    • Window wells
    • Sump pumps and pit
  • Describe
    • Interior or exterior signs of system failure or inadequacy
  • Not required
    • Underground or otherwise inaccessible systems or components
    • Sealed systems
    • Powered systems which are turned off

Gutter/Downspout

A large roof can shed upwards of 600 gallons/hour during a heavy rainstorm. A properly-installed, functioning gutter and downspout system is essential for moving water away from the house. Otherwise it falls at the home’s perimeter where it is likely to penetrate the foundation and erode the grading, leading to more intrusion. Gutters must be secured, properly-sloped, and free-flowing. Downspouts and extensions must be in place. Regardless of the extension type, the goal is to move the water well away from the building.

Whenever possible, view the gutter interiors for debris. Inspect for looseness, overflowing, or leaks.  Step back to look for proper slope towards the downspouts. Are the downspouts intact and secured to the gutters and the house? Do they terminate near the ground at a splash block or extension, or are they too high and pouring down water and eroding the grading? If you see concerns outside, including no system at all, connect the dots when inside the home. Poor water management always has consequences.

There are no gutters and downspouts. Water intrusion and/or erosion occurs due to a lack of roof water run-off control. Install a gutter and downspout system to direct water away from the structure.

The gutters are filled with debris. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Clean the gutters.

The gutters are improperly sloped. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Repair or replace the gutters to carry water away from the structure.

The gutters have inadequate support brackets. This can allow them to loosen, sag, and leak resulting in damage to other materials and components. Replace the brackets or install new brackets.

The gutters are loose. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Secure the gutters.

The gutters are damaged. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Repair or replace the gutters to carry water away from the structure.

The gutters are leaking. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Repair or replace the gutters to carry water away from the structure.

The gutters are deteriorated. This affects proper water control and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Repair or replace the gutters to carry water away from the structure.

The downspout is missing. This affects roof runoff control, and permits erosion, water intrusion, and deterioration. Replace the downspout.

The downspout elbow is missing from the base of the downspout. This permits erosion and water intrusion. Replace the downspout elbow.

The downspout is disconnected. This affects its ability to carry away roof run-off water from the foundation and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Connect the downspout.

The downspout is not properly secured to structure. This makes it vulnerable to damage and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Secure the downspout.

The downspout is damaged. This affects the downspout’s ability to carry roof run-off water away from the foundation. Repair or replace the downspout.

The downspout is too short. This affects the downspout extension’s ability to carry roof run-off water away from the foundation. Repair or replace the downspout.

The downspout is deteriorated. This affects its ability to carry  roof run-off water away from the foundation and permits intrusion and deterioration. Replace the downspout.

The gutters discharge onto the roof covering. This will cause premature wear of the roof covering. Add extensions to direct the discharge away from the roof.

The downspout extension is missing. Downspout extensions are required to carry roof run-off water away from the foundation. Replace the downspout extensions.

The downspout extension is damaged. This affect its ability to carry roof run-off water away from the foundation. Replace the downspout extension.

The downspout extension is routed upward. It will not function properly and will retain water. Re-route the extension or regrade the soil as required to direct water downhill away from the structure.

The downspout extension is disconnected from the downspout. This can allow water to accumulate at the structure and cause water penetration to occur. Connect the downspout extension.

The downspout is disconnected from the underground drain pipe. This affects the system’s ability to carry roof run-off water away from the foundation, and permits water intrusion and deterioration. Reconnect the downspout extension.

The underground downspout extension shows signs of blockage and overflow. This will not carry water away from the property and will permit intrusion. Repair or replace the extension.

Gutter/Downspout Limitation and Information Statements

Discharge into underground drainage system: Downspout(s) discharge into an underground drainage system. The condition of underground portions of the drainage system cannot be inspected.

Limited visibility of/access to gutters: Visibility of, and accessibility to, the gutters limits the inspection.

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The gutters and downspouts are near or at the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the gutters and downspouts.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The gutters and downspouts are past the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the gutters and downspouts.

Keep scuppers clean/free of debris/obstructions: Keep scuppers clean and free of debris or obstructions. Scuppers which do not drain properly will permit water to pond on the roof, hastening wear of the roofing material.

Drain

Drains are the visible entry points into underground water management systems. When site and soil conditions require more than surface water controls, subterranean systems must be used. Obviously, we cannot see these installations, nor do we actively test them in a visual inspection. We rely on evaluating the drains. These may be surface or yard drains, which can serve the overall property, preventing standing water or a  protecting the house perimeter with a hydrostatic relief system. Stairwell drains are common, and help prevent flooding through below-grade entries.

Inspect all drains for debris buildup that blocks water flow, or for signs of back-ups that indicate poor function. A drain grate cover should be in place and intact to prevent debris entry and trip hazards.

The exterior surface drain is blocked with debris. This can cause surface flooding and water penetration into the house. Clean the debris.

The exterior surface drain cover is damaged or missing. This permits debris to clog the drain, causing surface flooding and water penetration into the house. It is also a safety hazard. Repair or replace the cover.

The exterior surface drain is inoperative. There are signs of backups and overflowing. This can cause surface flooding and water penetration into the house. Repair or replace the drain.

The basement stairwell drain is blocked with debris. This permits water penetration into the house. Clean the debris.

The basement stairwell drain is missing. This permits water penetration into the house. Install a stairwell drain.

The stairwell drain cover is damaged or missing. This permits debris to clog the drain and cause water to enter the house. It is also a safety hazard. Repair or replace the cover.

The basement stairwell drain is inoperative. There are signs of backups and overflowing. This permits water penetration into the house. Repair or replace the drain.

Drain Limitation and Information Statements

Discharge into underground drainage system: Drain(s) discharge into an underground drainage system. The condition of underground portions of the drainage system cannot be inspected.

Limited visibility of/access to drain: Visibility of, and accessibility to, the drain limits the inspection.

Stairwell drains require periodic cleaning, risk of water: Stairwell drains require periodic cleaning. Clogged stairwell drains which overflow can permit water penetration into the home.

French drain is underground water catchment system: A French drain is an underground water catchment system installed in areas of poor drainage. French drains can alleviate hydrostatic pressure at the point at which surface water control or drainage is problematic and hard to correct by grading. The purpose of such a system is to divert surface water away from points at which water tends to enter the sub-grade areas of the dwelling. French drains are not visible for inspection, and are not evaluated during a home inspection.

Basement floor drains equipped with one or more Palmer valves: The basement floor drains are equipped with one or more Palmer valves, which were popular from about 1920 to 1950. These permit water to exit the drain into the sanitary waste (sewer) system, but prevent waste water or septic gases from entering the basement. Many municipalities require elimination of Palmer valves in favor of sump pump systems. Assessing the operational function of a Palmer valve is beyond the scope of the inspection.

Grading

Grading is fundamental to preventing water intrusion into a structure. Even a home built on a hilltop will experience penetration issues if the grade closest to the house is negative. Accepted standards call for a slope of 1″/foot for the first 6′ next to a house. You must look past the mulch and gravel that are common on houses presented for sale; water passes freely though them. It is the slope of the soil that matters.

If it looks like water will flow towards the house, it probably will. Sometimes the site will not allow for a positive slope throughout. A “swale” or culvert will be needed to catch the surface water before it reaches the house and carry it away. Don’t ignore drainage issues not adjacent to the house. A lake in the backyard makes it unusable, and is a breeding ground for mosquitoes. You must make note of the features and concerns you see on the exterior, and connect the dots when you’re inside. Bad grading is rarely present without consequences.

The final grading or landscaping at the property is not complete. This can allow water to accumulate at the structure and cause water penetration through the foundation. Monitor the grading upon completion, preferably during a period of heavy rain. The grade should be sloped at 1″ per foot for up to 6′ from the dwelling.

The grading is sloping towards the foundation. This will permit water penetration. Regrade to divert surface water away from the foundation. The grade should be sloped at 1″ per foot for up to 6′ from the dwelling.

The grading is eroded next to the structure. This permits water to collect and penetrate the foundation. The cause of the erosion should be identified. Correct any issues causing the erosion, and regrade to divert surface water away from the foundation.

The landscaping features appear to block proper drainage around the structure. This increases the potential for water to collect and penetrate through below grade foundations. Remove or relocate the landscaping feature.

There are deep cracks in the soil of the yard. This implies the need for a swale or drain to improve drainage and prevent surface flooding or penetration into the house. Regrade or install a swale to divert surface water away from the property.

There is standing water in the yard. This affects the yard’s usability and creates a condition conducive to mosquito breeding. Regrade to divert surface water away from the property.

The swale is damaged or eroded. This can divert surface water runoff towards the structure and allow water intrusion into the building. Regrade the swale to divert surface water away from the foundation.

The swale does not appear to be effectively diverting water away from the structure. This can result in water intrusion through the foundation. Regrade the swale to divert surface water away from the foundation.

Grading Limitation and Information Statements

New homes require attention to grading to prevent water penetration: New homes generally require particular attention to the grading needed to prevent water penetration into the home. Expect the ground next to the foundation to settle within the first few years. If not addressed and corrected, grading will gradually convey surface water towards and through the foundation.

Swale is shallow depression designed to control and direct surface water runoff: A swale is a shallow depression designed to control and direct surface water runoff. Swales are designed to direct the water around and away from a building. Swales typically are used when grades at the wall of a home can’t be adequately raised.

Not equipped with gutters, downspouts, and downspout extensions: The home is not equipped with gutters, downspouts, and downspout extensions. Adding these components will control roof water and direct it away from the foundation. This helps prevent intrusion into the structure and maintains the integrity of the property’s grading.

Window Well

Window wells serve the dual purpose of enabling proper grading and, when necessary, allowing egress from below-grade habitable rooms. For crawl space vents and entries, and non-egress windows, the walls of a window well permit the grading to be built up for a proper slope without covering the opening. For basement emergency egress windows the well must be constructed according to safety standards. This includes size requirements, ladders when needed, and protection against falling in from the exterior. A poorly-maintained or constructed window well is a hazard and will create water penetration issues.

Report any locations where a window well is needed. Inspect for condition, including separations from the structure, deterioration, debris buildup, or the lack of a bubble shield or operative protective grate. Note any signs of poor drainage within the well. Report any deviations from local requirements for safe emergency egress.

A window well is needed to allow for proper grading at a foundation opening that is close to the ground. This will help prevent water penetration into the structure. Install a window well as required.

The window well is obstructed with debris. This may interfere with proper drainage. Clean the debris.

The window well plastic shield is missing or damaged. This can result in water penetration. Repair or replace the shield.

The window wells do not appear to be connected to a footing drain system. Window wells rely upon natural drainage. This may allow water penetration into the structure. Install a drain as required.

There is a gap between the window well and the foundation. This is conducive to water intrusion through below grade foundations. Repair and seal the gap.

The window well is damaged. This permits water penetration into the structure and will lead to further damage. Repair or replace the window well.

The window well is deteriorated. This permits water penetration into the structure and will lead to further damage. Repair or replace the window well.

The window well does not have a protective grate/cover. Deep wells need protection against falling in. Install an appropriate cover. If the well is also an emergency egress, the cover must be readily operative.

There is a locked or inoperative grate at the window well. The window is an emergency fire egress. The grate is a safety hazard. Unlock or replace the grate.

The window well ladder outside of the emergency egress window is not secured to the wall. This is a fire safety escape issue. Secure the ladder to the wall.

The window well ladder outside of the emergency egress window is missing or does not meet accepted standards. This is a fire safety escape issue. Replace the ladder.

Window Well Limitation and Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The window well is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the window well.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The window well is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the window well.

Bedroom windows are for emergency fire egress, special safety requirements: Bedroom windows serve as a means of emergency fire egress. Accordingly, bedroom windows should conform to special safety requirements in terms of full operability and size. The minimum requirement is for 1 window with a clear opening of 5.7 square feet, a minimum width of 20″, a minimum height of 24″ and the bottom of the window no more than 44″ above the floor.

Install plastic bubble shields over window wells: Consider installing plastic bubble shields over window wells to minimize water penetration via window wells.

Sump Pump

Sump pumps are the last line of defense for protecting a structure against water intrusion. Preventing penetration should come first, but sometimes site drainage and water table challenges require that unavoidable entry be addressed. Properly constructed sump pump systems are connected to a perimeter drain channel. It provides a path of least resistance for water that crosses the foundation so it can be directed to the pump and then discharged outside of the home. Because the need for a system usually occurs during severe weather, a battery backup is recommended in case power is lost.

There may be limitations to inspecting a sump pump system that should be reported: a sealed sump, no water in the sump, or no power to the pump. Whenever possible operate the pump manually. Report inoperative pumps, damage, leaks, or hazardous loose , missing, or inappropriate sump covers. Systems must have a visible discharge well away from the structure and not into the sanitary drains. Drain lines should have check valves to prevent backflow and short-cycling.

The sump pump is damaged. This affects proper function. Repair or replace the pump.

The sump pump cover is loose or damaged. This is a safety hazard. It will also allow debris to enter the sump pit and risk clogging or damaging the pump. Secure or replace the cover.

The sump has a wood cover. The wood cover is subject to deterioration and is conducive to wood destroying insect infestation. Replace the cover.

The sump pump cover is missing. This is a safety hazard. It will also allow debris to enter the sump pit and risk clogging or damaging the pump. Replace the cover.

The sump pump discharge line is loose or leaking. This prevents proper operation and permits water damage. Repair or replace the discharge line.

The sump pump discharge line is clogged. This prevents proper operation and permits water damage. Clean the discharge line.

The sump pump’s discharge line has a valve installed. If the valve is closed the system will not work and will cause interior water damage. Remove the valve.

The sump pump is discharging too close to the dwelling. This permits the discharged water to re-enter through the foundation. Extend the pipe to discharge the water at least 6′ away from the structure.

The sump pump drains into the municipal sewer system. This is no longer permitted in many localities. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

The sump pump discharge pipe is plumbed to the septic system. This introduces excessive water into the septic drain field, which can cause a field failure. Reroute the discharge to the exterior away from the structure.

The sump pump check valve is missing or inoperative. The check valve is required to prevent discharged water from re-entering sump pit. Repair or replace the valve.

The water level in the sump is higher than the inlet pipe. This indicates a pump failure, and may allow water damage to the property. Replace the pump.

The sump pump system is unworkmanlike. It lacks a structured drain field or an appropriate sump. It is unlikely to be reliable or effective. Hire a contractor to install a sump pump and drainage system.

The sump pump does not have a battery back-up system; it is dependent on electrical service. During inclement weather electrical service outages are more likely. This is also the most important time to have your sump pump working. Hire a contractor to install a battery back-up system to keep the pump working if the electricity goes out.

Sump Pump Limitation and Information Statements

Sealed or covered: The sump pump cannot be fully inspected because it is sealed or covered, e.g., carpet, rug or other material. This prevents unobstructed access. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Not operated: The sump pump is not operated.

Not connected to a power source, not operated/tested: The sump pump is not connected to a power source and, therefore, cannot be operated.

Float lifted manually, motor operates but no water: The inspector lifts the float manually and operates the electric motor. However, there is no water in the sump to verify that the pump operates properly.

Discharge point not visible: The point of discharge for the sump pump is not visible and, therefore, is not inspected.

Hydrostatic pressure relief system installed: The home has a hydrostatic pressure relief system installed at the foundation’s perimeter. These underground installations provide a drainage path for water that penetrates the foundation, either routing it passively to the exterior, or to a sump pump for discharge outside of and away from the structure. They are mostly below grade and are beyond the scope of this inspection. You should request design, installation, and warranty information from the homeowner.

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The sump pump is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the sump pump.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The sump pump is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the sump pump.

Sump pump(s) is operative, responding to normal controls: The sump pump(s) is operative. The visible and readily-accessible components are responding to the normal controls.

No sump pump, passive sump with drain: There is a passive sump with a drain but there is no sump pump. The system is designed to collect and drain away ground water by gravity. There is no evidence that the sump has overflowed, but the sump should be monitored during and after heavy precipitation. If the water in the sump rises by more than one third of its depth, check the exterior drain area or consider installing a pump to discharge water to the exterior.

Sump pumps are designed to divert water away from foundation: Sump pumps are designed to divert water away from the foundation. Set the pump to discharge water when the water level is at the bottom of the drain tiles entering the sump. Test the pump regularly to ensure that it is operating properly when energized, that the float moves freely, and that there are no obstructions in the drain line. If the system has a battery backup, test the battery regularly.

No battery back-up system, consider installing back-up system: The sump pump does not have a battery back-up system; it is dependent on electrical service. During inclement weather electrical service outages are more likely. This is also the most important time to have your sump pump working. Consider installing a battery back-up system.

Standards of Practice

  • Inspect
    • Insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished areas
    • Ventilation and humidity control systems in attics and crawl spaces
    • Mechanical ventilation systems
  • Describe
    • Insulation, vapor retarders, and humidity control systems in unfinished spaces
    • Absence of insulation in unfinished spaces at conditioned surfaces
    • Absence of humidity control measures in unfinished spaces
  • Not required
    • Mechanical systems which would require dismantling to inspect
    • Powered systems which are turned off