Attic Insulation

Appropriate attic insulation can be the single largest factor in managing a home’s energy costs. 25% of a home’s generated heat can be lost through the roof, accounting for up to 60% of the total energy lost in cold weather. During summer in warm climates inadequate insulation can require 1/2 ton of cooling just to overcome the heat gain from a hot attic. Additionally, the thoroughness of the insulation matters. Gaps and bare spots can negate the upper ceilings’ overall R-value.

Safety comes first, but enter and inspect attics as completely as possible. Report displaced or missing insulation, thin areas, and coverage not up to current local requirements. Exposed flammable materials such as paper vapor barriers are notable, as are improperly-installed materials. The vapor barrier must be against the drywall or plaster and closest to the conditioned spaces. Newer top layers should not have an additional vapor barrier; loose or “unfaced” product should be installed. “Can” lights must have clearance from insulation unless you can confirm that they are”IC” rated. Look for damaged insulation, and be sure to connect the dots if you see water damage.

Attic Insulation

Insulation is missing in the attic. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

The level of attic insulation is considered inadequate by today’s standards. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

Insulation has been moved, leaving uninsulated areas. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

Insulation is compressed or settled in the attic to an extent to which its effectiveness is compromised. This affects energy efficiency. Install additional insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

Insulation is damaged in the attic to an extent to which its effectiveness is compromised. This affects energy efficiency. Replace the insulation.

There is exposed flammable insulation present. The insulation is required to be protected using fire-rated materials. Replace the insulation or cover it with approved materials.

The attic insulation is installed with the vapor retarder exposed; the Kraft paper barrier is flammable and should be covered. Replace the insulation, or cover the exposed vapor barrier with approved materials.

The attic insulation is installed backwards with the vapor retarder exposed. The vapor barrier is required to be installed against the conditioned side of the ceiling to prevent the trapping of moisture. This is also a safety hazard. Reinstall or replace the insulation.

The insulation is adjacent to the recessed lighting fixtures. Unless the fixtures are of a newer design which permit contact with insulation, this is a fire hazard. Remove the insulation from the light fixtures.

There are water stains on the attic insulation. The insulation is dry at the time of the inspection. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration.

There are water stains on the attic insulation. The insulation is wet at the time of the inspection. The cause of the water must be identified. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration. Replace the insulation as needed.

Attic Insulation Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The attic insulation is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the attic insulation.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The attic insulation is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the attic insulation.

Inadequate by current standards: The level of attic insulation is considered inadequate by current standards. Consider installing additional insulation in accordance with local guidelines to improve energy efficiency.

Interior Insulation

Interior insulation requirements vary by locale; you should be familiar with your area’s standards. Recent codes for all but the southern and southwest tier states require conditioned spaces to have insulated walls: R-10 for continuous (spray foam) and R-13 for between the studs. Northern tier states require higher values.  Unconditioned basements may be insulated on the wall, or on the ceiling between the basement and conditioned spaces above. Foam must be covered for fire safety unless rated for exposure.

Inspect for loose, falling. damaged, and missing or inadequate insulation. Always report indications of moisture issues: don’t forget your Infrared scan! Remember to use a Limitation Statement when appropriate due to finished surfaces or access restrictions.

Interior Insulation

Insulation is missing. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

The level of interior insulation is considered inadequate by today’s standards. Install additional insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

There is loose or falling insulation. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

Insulation is damaged to an extent to which its effectiveness is compromised. This affects energy efficiency. Replace the insulation.

There is exposed flammable insulation present. The insulation is required to be protected using fire-rated materials. Replace the insulation or cover it with approved materials.

The insulation is installed with the vapor retarder exposed; the Kraft paper barrier is flammable and should be covered.  Replace the insulation, or cover the exposed vapor barrier with approved materials.

There are water stains on the insulation. The insulation is dry at the time of the inspection. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration.

There are water stains on the insulation. The insulation is wet at the time of the inspection. The cause of the water must be identified. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration. Replace the insulation as needed.

Interior Insulation Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The interior insulation is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the basement insulation.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The interior insulation is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the basement insulation.

Crawl Space Insulation

An unconditioned, vented crawl space can create significant heating and cooling challenges for a home. Insulation can help prevent winter heat loss and higher costs. In humid climates, the vapor barrier on properly-installed insulation reduces the AC system’s work load in the summer. “Closed” and “Closed and Conditioned” crawl spaces are becoming more common, and are being addressed in the codes. It is important to understand how these systems, installed in high-humidity areas, affect the use of insulation. See the information in the “Humidity Control” component.

Always report missing crawl space insulation, regardless of the system in place. Inspect for inadequate levels of insulation, gaps on the walls or overhead sub-floor, unsecured and/or falling materials, and damage. Water stains or damage, whether wet or dry, must be noted.

Crawl Space Insulation

Insulation is missing in the crawl space. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

The overhead sub-floor inside the crawl space is not insulated. While this may have been acceptable when the house was constructed it affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

There is loose or falling insulation inside the crawl space. This affects energy efficiency. Install insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

Insulation is damaged in the crawl space to an extent to which its effectiveness is compromised. This affects energy efficiency. Replace the insulation.

The level of crawl space insulation is considered inadequate by today’s standards. Install additional insulation in accordance with local guidelines.

The crawl space insulation is installed with the vapor retarder on the wrong side. This can allow moisture to condense within the insulation, reducing its effectiveness and promoting mold/mildew growth. Reinstall or replace the insulation.

The exterior foundation wall insulation is installed in contact with the wall frame. This condition will encourage pest infestation, and may trap moisture against the wood members. Remove the insulation from the wall frame.

There are water stains on the crawl space insulation. The insulation is dry at the time of the inspection. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration.

There are water stains on the crawl space insulation. The insulation is wet at the time of the inspection. The cause of the water must be identified. Identify sources of moisture and mitigate any water penetration. Replace the insulation as needed.

Loose cellulose is installed as a crawl space insulation. This is an inappropriate material. It does not allow for a vapor barrier in a vented crawl space, and is intolerant or moisture. Replace the insulation.

Crawl Space Insulation Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The crawl space insulation is near or at the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the crawl space insulation.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The crawl space insulation is past the end of its useful life. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the crawl space insulation.

Ventilation

Ventilation in a home is important for controlling humidity, temperature, and providing adequate healthy indoor air. Older houses were not “tight.” Air exchanges took place through the openings inherent in the building’s envelope. Passive venting kept attic temperatures and humidity seasonally appropriate. New, much tighter, well-insulated buildings must use mechanical means to achieve indoor air quality requirements. Air-to-Air and Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV), as well as Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) are used to maintain a healthy interior environment without running up HVAC operating costs.

Inspect for the basics: does the attic have balanced ventilation, e.g. ridge and soffit vents? Power vents should be tested if possible. “Whole house” fans must not be on automatic controls. Are full bathrooms and cooking areas provided with quiet, operative ventilators in good condition? Do all vents exhaust to the exterior? Are all exterior vent terminations pest-entry proof? We only inspect HRV and ERV units with the homeowner controls. Look for damage, improperly-installed filters, etc.

Exhaust Fans

The fan exhausts to the attic instead of the exterior. This will increase moisture levels and mold/mildew issues. Reroute the discharge to the exterior away from the structure.

The fan exhausts to the crawl space instead of the exterior. This will increase moisture levels and mold/mildew issues. Reroute the discharge to the exterior away from the structure.

The fan exhausts to the garage instead of the exterior. This will increase moisture levels and mold/mildew issues. Reroute the discharge to the exterior away from the structure.

The exhaust vent is too close to the outside grade. This can allow snow or debris to block the vent. Raise the vent to at least 1′ above the grade.

The exhaust fan exterior hood is missing or damaged. This permits pest intrusion. Replace the exterior hood.

The exhaust fan exterior hood is blocked. This affects proper operation and is a safety concern. Clear the hood.

The exhaust fan duct is damaged. This permits moisture into the house. Repair or replace the duct.

The whole house fan is inoperative. Repair or replace the fan for proper function.

The whole house fan protective shroud is missing. This is a safety hazard. Install or replace the shroud.

The whole house fan has been installed in an unworkmanlike manner. This is a safety and reliability concern. Reinstall the fan.

There is a timer or  thermostatically-controlled whole house fan in the attic. This is no longer permitted. The fan can depressurize the house and cause combustion appliances to backdraft if it operates without windows open to provide make-up air. Remove the fan’s automatic control so that manual operation is required.

Passive Vents

There are blocked attic ridge vents. This permits heat and moisture buildup. Clear the vents.

There are blocked attic gable vents. This permits heat and moisture buildup. Clear the vents.

There are blocked attic roof vents. This permits heat and moisture buildup. Clear the vents.

The exterior soffit vent screens have been painted over. This makes them ineffective, and permits heat and moisture buildup. Clear or replace the vent screens.

There are missing soffit vent baffles in the attic. This permits insulation to block the vents and cause heat and moisture buildup. Repair or replace the baffles.

There is damaged attic vent screening. This permits animal and pest entry. Replace the screening.

There is damaged crawl space vent screening. This permits animal and pest entry. Replace the screening.

Ventilation Limitation and Information Statements

Information Statements

No ventilation source, no evidence of moisture issues, consider installing ventilation: The attic area has no ventilation source but there is no evidence of moisture issues that occur in attics lacking ventilation. Due to the nature of older construction, there may be enough small openings in the attic area to provide minimal ventilation. Consider installing more attic ventilation for energy conservation.

Whole house fan installed to lower interior and attic temperatures during summer months: The home includes a whole house fan designed to lower interior and attic temperatures during summer months. Whole house fans require intake air (usually open windows) and an exhaust vent in the attic to ensure proper operation. The fan switch should be located in an area outside of normal reach to ensure that it is not accidentally activated. The fan switch should not be activated when windows are closed nor should the switch employ an “automatic on” feature, which would allow the house to become depressurized, causing combustion by-products from heating appliances (e.g., water heater, fireplace, etc.) to enter the home. During winter months, place insulation over the fan inside the attic to reduce heat loss. It is also important to install carbon monoxide detectors in homes with whole house fans and fossil fuel appliances or fireplaces.

Windows provide attic ventilation but need to be manually operated to provide attic ventilation, consider installing permanent attic vents: Windows provide attic ventilation. Such windows need to be manually operated to provide adequate attic ventilation. Consider installing permanent attic vents, such as soffit or gable vents, which remain open and protect against the entry of rain and snow.

High rise residential dwellings typically have passive venting systems to provide source of fresh air/allow discharge of stale air and odors: High rise residential dwellings typically have passive venting systems to provide a source of fresh air and to allow the discharge of stale air and odors. This is needed for a healthy air exchange within the living space. Rooms such as bathrooms and kitchen need operative venting for this to be effective. Be sure the venting grills are present, open, and clean of lint and debris.

Humidity Control

Humidity control is essential for a healthy indoor environment as well as energy efficiency. Building Science has significantly changed our understanding of how this is best achieved in warm, humid climates. For those areas, venting a crawl space to the exterior, with or without a vapor retarder on the ground, is more likely to cause chronic humidity issues. “Closed” and “closed and conditioned” crawl spaces are a better solution. Traditional venting is still valid in dry climates. More information can be found at Crawlspaces.org .

Determine what humidity control approach is in place. Closed crawl spaces must be a complete commitment. A “partially” closed space will likely have more humidity problems than an open one. Look for incomplete details, e.g. insulation or vapor retarder  gaps, missing weatherstripping, openings to the exterior. Any water intrusion into a closed system is a problem; basic exterior water controls must be in place. Overall, inspect for signs of chronic humidity: wood staining or growth, “stringy” fiberglass insulation, condensation overhead or on the vapor retarder.

Humidity Control

There is not a crawl space vapor retarder. This will raise the humidity and is conducive to moisture related problems. Install a vapor retarder.

The crawl space vapor retarder does not cover all areas. This will raise the humidity and is conducive to moisture related problems. Install the vapor retarder over all areas.

The crawl space vapor retarder is damaged. This will raise the humidity and is conducive to moisture related problems. Repair or replace the vapor retarder.

The vapor retarder in the closed crawl space is in poor condition. This is a special concern in a closed system for preventing moisture related problems. Repair or replace the vapor retarder.

There are gaps in the closed crawl space’s wall insulation. This can allow outside air to enter and will have a negative effect on the overall performance of the system. Repair and seal the gaps.

The closed crawlspace’s wall insulation does not have a gap at the top to allow for a visual inspection of the foundation. This prevents a thorough inspection for wood destroying insects. Repair or replace the insulation as needed.

The conditioned crawl space’s access door does not have a weather-strip. This can allow exterior air to enter, which will diminish the system’s performance. Install a weather strip.

The crawl space is neither fully open or a “closed” system. This partial approach is likely to cause significant moisture related and environmental problems. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

There is excessive moisture in the crawl space. This can cause structural damage and health concerns. The source of the moisture must be identified. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs or upgrades as needed.

Humidity Control Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Areas inaccessible/not visible due to height, design, materials: Some areas are inaccessible and/or not visible due to height, design and materials. Therefore, the inspection is limited.

Information Statements

Below-grade area includes exposed soil, may permit moisture/unwanted ground vapors: The below-grade area of the dwelling includes exposed soil. This condition may permit the migration of moisture and other unwanted ground vapors into the living area. This condition is conducive to pest infestation. Install a vapor retarder over the exposed soil.

No vapor retarder, no signs of excessive moisture, consider installing vapor retarder: The crawl space does not have a vapor retarder but there are no signs of excessive moisture. Consider installing a vapor retarder to continue to help keep the ground moisture away from house.

Close vents during colder months to avoid freezing temperatures below house, open vents during warmer months for cross-ventilation: Vents should be closed during colder months to avoid freezing temperatures below the house. Covers of rigid insulation or other materials can be used for such purpose. Vents should be reopened during warmer months for proper cross-ventilation.

Keep vents closed during summer months to keep warm, moist air out of crawl space: Foundation vents should be kept closed during the summer months to keep warm, moist air out of the crawl space and to reduce condensation on ductwork and other cool surfaces.  Foundation vents can be opened during winter months to permit dryer winter air to ventilate the crawl space. Vents directly in front of plumbing pipes should always be kept closed to prevent freezing in winter months.

“Closed and conditioned” crawl space, to improve long-term moisture issues: This house features a “closed and conditioned” crawl space. This is an effort to improve long-term moisture issues that traditional approaches have not solved in humid areas. The closed and conditioned crawl space has no foundation vents or vents are sealed. The ground is covered and sealed at the walls and dehumidifiers occasionally are installed. HVAC registers are provided so that the space is heated and cooled. This makes the crawl space more of an extension of the conditioned interior of the home. While this appears to be a successful approach for many homes, there are some drawbacks. The primary one is that it is often not possible to inspect the walls and other spaces for evidence of insect activity. The space should be checked periodically for any leaks or water penetration. All of the basic surface water control features of good home construction must be maintained.

“Closed” crawl space, to improve long-term moisture issues: This house features a “closed” crawl space. This is an effort to improve long-term moisture issues that traditional approaches have not solved in humid areas. The closed crawl space has no foundation vents or vents are sealed. The ground is covered and sealed at the walls and dehumidifiers occasionally are installed. This makes the crawl space more of an extension of the conditioned interior of the home. While this appears to be a successful approach for many homes, there are some drawbacks. The primary one is that it is often not possible to inspect the walls and other spaces for evidence of insect activity. The space should be checked periodically for any leaks or water penetration. All of the basic surface water control features of good home construction must be maintained.

Crawl space vents installed in foundation walls permit moisture to be vented out of crawl space, keep vents open: Crawl space vents installed in the foundation walls permit moisture to be properly vented out of the crawl space. Trapped moisture promotes mold and mildew and could eventually result in structural deterioration. Therefore, it is important to keep vents open and unobstructed.

Standards of Practice

  • Inspect
    • Floors, walls, and ceilings
    • Stairs, steps (including pull-down steps) and railings
    • Countertops and a representative number of installed cabinets
    • Representative number of readily accessible doors and windows
    • Fireplaces and solid fuel-burning appliances systems and components
  • Describe
    • Fireplaces and solid fuel-burning appliances
  • Not required
    • Carpeting except in areas in which condition presents a safety hazard (stairs and landings)
    • Paint, wallpaper, and other finish treatments
    • Window treatments
    • Interiors of flues or chimneys
    • Fire screens, fireplace doors, seal, gaskets, mantles, and surrounds
    • Automatic fuel feed devices and combustion make-up air devices
    • Heat distributions assists (gravity or fan assisted)
    • Ignite or extinguish fires
    • Determine draft characteristics
    • Move fireplace inserts, stoves, or firebox contents

Floors

In this Component we are inspecting the interior floor coverings, rather than the underlying support covered in “Structural – Floors.” While flooring is generally outside of the scope of most SOPs, we do want to report on certain defects. Some indicate an ongoing condition that will create further damage and expense. Others are safety issues. Additionally, we use infrared thermography in the Interior evaluation. Those defects are reported here using specific language and dedicated photo slots.

Inspect for damage, including cracked and/or loose tiles, missing grout, and loose carpet or flooring that may be a tripping hazard. Voids under carpeting are notable. Any water damage should be reported; cupping and curling in a wood floor implies uncontrolled moisture, usually from below. Perform an interior Infrared scan following the protocols and techniques taught in the CRET training.

Carpeting

There is a void under the carpet. There may be damage which is not visible. Remove the carpeting to identify the source of the void and repair as required.

The carpeting is loose. This is a trip hazard. Secure or replace the carpeting.

The carpeting is damaged. This is a trip hazard. Repair or replace the carpeting.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an area in the floor with likely water penetration. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Wood

The flooring is damaged. Repair or replace the flooring.

The laminated wood flooring is damaged and separating. This is a tripping hazard and can allow further deterioration. Hire a contractor to repair the floor.

The wood flooring has been patched in an unworkmanlike manner. It is springy and uneven. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacements as needed.

The wood flooring is curling at the edges. This implies chronic excess moisture is present, usually from a crawlspace or basement below the floor. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The wood flooring is damaged due to improper installation over a slab or dirt floor. Replace the flooring.

The flooring is water damaged. The source of the moisture, and whether this is an ongoing problem, cannot be determined. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Laminate

The laminate flooring is loose. This is a trip hazard. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The laminate flooring is installed without an expansion gap at the wall termination. This is contrary to manufacturer guidelines, and will cause buckling. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The laminate flooring is installed without a secured transition molding where the flooring changes or terminates. This is a trip hazard and can allow damage to the laminate. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The laminate flooring is installed over a slab. Manufacturer guidelines prohibit this without specific testing of the sub-surface. If permissible, an underlayment must be used to prevent deterioration and failure. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The laminate flooring is water damaged. The source of the moisture, and whether this is an ongoing problem, cannot be determined. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

The laminate flooring is uneven and soft underfoot. The reason for this is unknown, but may be an installation error. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

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Sheetgoods/Vinyl Tile

The vinyl flooring is loose or has gaps. This will allow water damage and continued loosening. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The seams in the vinyl sheetgoods are separating. This will allow water damage and additional damage. Hire a contractor for repairs as needed.

The vinyl flooring is damaged. This will allow water penetration and additional damage. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacements as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an area in the floor with likely water penetration. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Ceramic/Porcelain/Marble/Stone Tiles

The floor tiles are missing grout. This will allow water penetration and deterioration. Regrout the tiles.

The floor tiles are cracked. This damage will likely progress and cause tiles to loosen and come up. Repair or replace the tiles.

The floor tiles are loose, as apparent by lightly tapping the surface. This reveals tiles that are not bonded to the subfloor. These tiles will move, have grout breakage, crack, and come up. Repair or replace the tiles.

The tile floor is deteriorated. Repairs would not be practical or reliable. Replace the tile floor.

Masonry/Concrete

The concrete floor is cracked and damaged. This can be a tripping hazard and may allow further deterioration. Repair the floor.

Pavers in the masonry floor are missing. This is a tripping hazard and can allow further damage. Repair the floor.

Walls

In the Structure category, we considered the walls as it relates to their stability and load-bearing capacities. In this section we are inspecting the walls’ finish coverings. While we focus on conditions that seem more “cosmetic”, we must consider whether changes or damage in a wall covering also imply an ongoing or potential structural issue with the wall itself. Why is that crack there? Is this a load-bearing wall, or is it a wall dropping away from the bearing wall? Is there a water penetration issue present?

Inspect for cracks, damage, separations, loose areas, and stains. Loose plaster can be a hazard. Remember that walls separating a garage from the living spaces should be fire-rated and intact.  Always perform an Infrared scan on the interior surfaces, and follow-up any anomalies with your moisture meter. Water penetration can cause significant damage and expense, and has structural implications.

Drywall/Plaster

The interior wall is damaged. Repair or replace the wall.

The interior wall is water damaged. Testing with a moisture meter indicates low moisture content (dry) at the time of this inspection. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

The interior wall is water stained or damaged. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an area in the interior wall with likely water penetration. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an inaccessible area in the interior wall with likely water penetration. Confirmation with a moisture meter for high moisture content is not possible. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

There is a breach (hole, damage or opening) in the fire-rated wall. This is a safety concern. Replace the portions of the wall with fire-rated material.

The wall separating the garage from the adjacent living area is not fire-rated. This is a safety concern. Replace the wall with fire-rated materials.

There is cracking at the interior wall that is larger than what would be expected with typical settlement. This may be a structural issue. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Ceramic Tile

There are gaps in the tile wall. This will allow water penetration and deterioration. Repair the wall.

There are missing tiles in the wall. This will allow water penetration and deterioration. Repair the wall.

There are cracked tiles in the wall. This will allow water penetration and deterioration, and will cause the tiles to become loose. Repair the wall.

The wall tiles are loose or damaged. Loose tiles are apparent by lightly tapping the surface. This reveals tiles that are not properly bonded and will move, have grout breakage, crack, and come off. Repair the wall.

The tile wall is damaged. This will allow water penetration and further deterioration. Repair or replace the tiles.

Wood/Paneling

The wall paneling is loose. This may allow it to come off completely. Repair the paneling.

The wall paneling is damaged. Repair or replace the paneling.

The wall paneling is missing. Replace the paneling as needed.

The wall paneling is warped. This indicates excess humidity or water penetration in the area. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an area in the interior wall paneling with likely water penetration. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

INFRARED and COLD WEATHER

An infrared camera DOES NOT “see” or measure moisture. All it does is show differences in surface temperatures. This has a significant effect on correct image interpretation when working in cold weather.

Evaporative Cooling vs. Thermal Capacity

Evaporative cooling and water’s high thermal capacity are the two reasons we can use infrared to detect possible moisture.

Thermal Capacity

Water’s high thermal capacity, or ability to absorb heat energy, comes into play when moisture is “trapped.” In our work this occurs primarily under roofing membranes, e.g. modified bitumen, EPDM, etc. We normally do not perform roofing membrane inspections as a part of a Home Inspection; we work from the interior of the house.

Evaporative Cooling

Evaporative cooling is the main thermodynamic mechanism that we rely upon to detect possible moisture. This occurs in a “open” system. While we think of a wall or ceiling area as somewhat sealed, they are sufficiently open to allow air and vapor flow.

In order for water to change state from a liquid to a vapor, heat must be added. That heat is drawn from the surrounding materials, e.g., the insulation, framing, drywall, etc. Infrared allows us to see the temperature drop when heat is removed from the building materials to fuel the water’s state change.

Everything looks good. The outside grade is just below the window:

The hose faucet in the corner is leaking. Heat is drawn away from the wall materials and carpet as the water changes state:

Why does cold weather matter?

First of all, this concerns infrared imaging of exterior walls and ceilings. By exterior, we mean that the other side of the surface is an unconditioned area. This applies to a ceiling below an unconditioned attic as well as a home’s actual “exterior” wall structure. This does not apply to fully interior walls, or to ceilings below conditioned areas, i.e. the 1st. floor ceiling in a 2-story house.

Cold weather matters because, as noted, we rely primarily on evaporative cooling to detect possible moisture. Simply put, water has a hard time changing from a liquid to a vapor when it’s 45°F outside. True, some heat conducts into the wall cavity in a heated house. But the colder it is outside, the harder evaporative cooling becomes. In the Winter cold spots are much more likely to indicate an insulation anomaly.

Confirm suspected moisture with your meter whenever possible!

Visible light image in Winter:

IR image: why would moisture flow downwards like this? Confirm with your moisture meter; it’s an insulation anomaly!

Winter IR image: the kneewall isn’t insulated, and it’s too cold for evaporative cooling. Use your moisture meter.

Look at the temperatures! Why would water flow this way? Use your moisture meter.

Ceilings

Ceilings are not just cosmetic “caps” for interior rooms. They are also load-bearing floors for the spaces above. This is true even if that space is an unfinished, unconditioned attic. As such, we must be concerned with what a ceiling’s condition may be revealing beyond just the possibility of drywall or acoustic tiles falling on us. Is there an failing floor above due to excess loading or a structural defect? Why are the tiles or suspended panels loose? What’s the significance now and in the future of a stain? Your IR inspection must include the ceilings, and a follow-up as possible with your moisture meter.

Inspect for cracks, damage, loose coverings and tiles, sagging surfaces, and stains. Remember that garages must be separated from living spaces by an intact firewall, including any access hatches or stairs. Carry a lightweight step stool or a selfie stick to enable using your moisture meter to confirm the condition of any stains. Always report using the relevant IR “picture pairs” and meter views placed in the dedicated photo slots in the template.

Drywall/Plaster

The ceiling is damaged. This is a potential safety issue. Repair the ceiling as needed.

The ceiling is loose or sagging. The reason for this is not known, and may allow a failure and personal injury. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The ceiling is water stained or damaged. Testing with a moisture meter indicates low moisture content (dry) at the time of this inspection. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

The ceiling is water stained or damaged. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an area in the ceiling with likely water penetration. Testing with a moisture meter indicates high moisture content at the time of this inspection. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

Infrared thermal imaging shows an inaccessible area in the ceiling with likely water penetration. Confirmation with a moisture meter for high moisture content is not possible. There may be hidden damage. See the supplied infrared images. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

There is a breach (hole, damage or opening) in the fire-rated ceiling. This is a safety concern. Replace the portions of the ceiling with fire-rated material.

The ceiling separating the garage from the adjacent living area is not fire-rated. This is a safety concern. Replace the ceiling with fire-rated materials.

Acoustic and Suspended Tiles

The ceiling tiles are loose or damaged. This is a potential safety hazard. Repair or replace the tiles.

The ceiling tiles are water stained or damaged. Testing with a moisture meter indicates low moisture content (dry) at the time of this inspection. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and to make repairs as needed.

INFRARED and COLD WEATHER

An infrared camera DOES NOT “see” or measure moisture. All it does is show differences in surface temperatures. This has a significant effect on correct image interpretation when working in cold weather.

Evaporative Cooling vs. Thermal Capacity

Evaporative cooling and water’s high thermal capacity are the two reasons we can use infrared to detect possible moisture.

Thermal Capacity

Water’s high thermal capacity, or ability to absorb heat energy, comes into play when moisture is “trapped.” In our work this occurs primarily under roofing membranes, e.g. modified bitumen, EPDM, etc. We normally do not perform roofing membrane inspections as a part of a Home Inspection; we work from the interior of the house.

Evaporative Cooling

Evaporative cooling is the main thermodynamic mechanism that we rely upon to detect possible moisture. This occurs in a “open” system. While we think of a wall or ceiling area as somewhat sealed, they are sufficiently open to allow air and vapor flow.

In order for water to change state from a liquid to a vapor, heat must be added. That heat is drawn from the surrounding materials, e.g., the insulation, framing, drywall, etc. Infrared allows us to see the temperature drop when heat is removed from the building materials to fuel the water’s state change.

Everything looks good. This is the kitchen ceiling just below the master bathroom:

The tub and shower are leaking. Heat is drawn away from the ceiling and floor materials as the water changes state:

Why does cold weather matter?

First of all, this concerns infrared imaging of exterior walls and ceilings. By exterior, we mean that the other side of the surface is an unconditioned area. This applies to a ceiling below an unconditioned attic as well as a home’s actual “exterior” wall structure. This does not apply to fully interior walls, or to ceilings below conditioned areas, i.e. the 1st. floor ceiling in a 2-story house.

Cold weather matters because, as noted, we rely primarily on evaporative cooling to detect possible moisture. Simply put, water has a hard time changing from a liquid to a vapor when it’s 45°F outside. True, some heat conducts into the wall cavity in a heated house. But the colder it is outside, the harder evaporative cooling becomes. In the Winter cold spots are much more likely to indicate an insulation anomaly.

Confirm suspected moisture with your meter whenever possible!

Visible light image in Winter:

IR image: why would moisture flow downwards like this? Confirm with your moisture meter; it’s an insulation anomaly!

Winter IR image: the ceiling isn’t insulated, and it’s too cold for evaporative cooling. Use your moisture meter.

Ceilings Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Vaulted/cathedral ceiling: There is a vaulted or cathedral ceiling. This limits the inspection due to lack of access for evaluation of spaces between ceiling and underside of roof.

Information Statements

Ceiling cracks are typical, generally due to shrinkage, cosmetic repairs: The cracks in the ceiling surfaces are typical. These are generally due to the shrinkage of lumber and/or normal settlement. Make cosmetic repairs before painting.

Stairs/Steps

Stairs and steps are a basic and heavily-used part of any multi-level house. Additionally, more accidents and injuries occur on or around them than anywhere else in the home. Improper construction, damage, and neglected maintenance can turn these commonplace features we all take for granted into a significant hazard. They must be inspected thoroughly and reported on accurately.

Safe and secure handrails and guardrails are essential: see the Handrails and Guardrails section. Inspect stairs and steps for a solid, level installation and for condition. Check the run and rise of the steps for minimum requirements and for consistency. Report any loose or damaged treads. Pull-down stairs must be solidly installed, and trimmed correctly and to the proper length. All hardware must be in good working order. Spiral stairs should be securely mounted, and have identical treads at least 26″ wide.

Fixed Staircases

The step’s riser height is uneven. Standards require a maximum variation of no more than 3/8″. This is a safety issue. Repair or replace the steps to ensure a consistent riser height.

The step’s riser height is excessive. Standards require a maximum height no greater than 7.75″. This is a safety issue. Repair or replace the steps to ensure an appropriate and consistent riser height.

The step treads’ “run” is inadequate. This is a safety hazard. The run is the distance from the front edge of the tread to the rear of the tread. Current standards call for a minimum run of 11″. Repair or replace the steps to ensure a safe tread run.

The stairs have “open” risers. This is a safety hazard. Current standards limit the space or opening between the treads to a maximum of 4″. Repair or replace the stairs as needed.

The stairs are damaged. This is a safety issue. Repair or replace the stairs.

The stairs are settled; the reason for this is unknown. This is a potential safety issue. Hire a contractor for an evaluation and repairs as needed.

The stairs are deteriorated and unreliable. This is a safety concern. Replace the stairs.

Pull-Down

The pull-down stairs have loose or missing hardware. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the hardware.

The pull-down stairs are not cut to the proper length. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

The pull-down stairs are damaged. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

The pull-down stairs are improperly installed. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the stairs.

The pull-down stairs are not fire rated. This condition creates a breach in the existing fire rated ceiling. Replace the stairs with a fire-rated model.

Handrails and Guardrails

The handrail is loose. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the handrail.

The handrail does not have a return back to the wall. This is a safety hazard. Add a return to the handrail.

The handrail does not provide coverage for the entire staircase. This is a safety hazard. Add a handrail to the entire staircase.

The handrail is missing. This is a safety hazard. Replace the handrail.

The handrail is damaged or deteriorated. This is a safety hazard. Repair or replace the handrail.

The balusters are improperly spaced at the handrail. The opening between balusters should not exceed 4″. Repair or replace the balusters.

The balusters are improperly spaced at the guardrail. The opening between balusters should not exceed 4″. Repair or replace the balusters.

The guardrail is missing. this is a safety hazard. Install a guardrail.

The balusters are horizontal at the guardrail. This is a safety hazard. Horizontal balusters can be used by children to climb onto rail. Repair or replace the balusters.

The guardrail at the stairway is too low. Platforms above a 6′ height should have a 42″ guardrail for safety. Hire a contractor for repairs or replacement as needed.

Stairs/Steps Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Private elevator, beyond scope: A private elevator is present within the home or dwelling unit. These are specialized installations and are beyond the scope of this inspection. Hire a qualified technician for a full evaluation and request the service records from the homeowner or building management.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The stairs/steps are near or at the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the stairs/steps.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The stairs/steps are past the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the stairs/steps.

Open sides of stairways and platforms >30″ in height should have guardrail and handrail systems meeting current safety guidelines: Open sides of steps and elevated platforms >30″ in height should have guardrails for safety. Guardrails should be a minimum of 36″ high for platforms which are <6′ high and a minimum of 42″ high for platforms >6′ high. Balusters should have a maximum of 4″ spacing. Stairs with four or more risers require handrails, which should be mounted 34″ to 38″ high measured from the nosing of the tread. Handrails should be graspable with a maximum width of 2 5/8″ and should be continuous from the top of stairs to the bottom of stairs and be spaced at least 1 1/2″ from the wall. Handrails should return to the wall, terminate at a newel post, or have a 1′ extension at the top and bottom of stairs which is parallel with the floor surface.

Staircase headroom is <6’8″ as required by current standards, caution required: The staircase headroom is less than the 6’8″ required by modern construction standards. Construction of the staircase predates such requirements. Be cautious when using this staircase.

Staircase is more narrow than the 36″ required by current standards: The staircase is more narrow than the 36″ required by modern construction standards. Construction of the staircase predates such requirements.

Staircase has steeper than normal rise between steps with treads that are shallow, caution required: The staircase has a steeper than normal rise between steps, with treads that are shallow. Such construction often is designed to conserve interior space but makes stairs more difficult to use. As correction may not be practical, be cautious when using this staircase.

Glazing at stairway window does not appear to be safety/tempered glass, generally mandated by current standards: The glazing at the stairway window does not appear to be safety glass, which generally is marked with manufacturer’s information at one of the corners. Safety or tempered glass is mandated by current construction standards in these locations. Older homes generally do not employ safety glass and are not required to replace the glass unless there is remodeling.

Cabinets

Cabinets are one of the top kitchen and bathroom features that home buyers look for. They want ample amounts of functional, solid storage. We must inspect cabinetry carefully. As they can provide “bang for the bucks”, they may be lower quality. Additionally they are frequently installed improperly. It is not unusual for a large wall cabinet to be loaded with over 100 lbs of dishes. This creates the possibility of significant personal injury if the cabinet falls off of the wall. Base cabinets can tip over if incorrectly installed.

Inspect for the right attachment hardware. Nails and drywall screws are unacceptable. Cabinet screws, or screws utilizing a flat washer base are required. Look for separations in the cabinets’ frame. View from the side: is everything plumb and level? Inspect for indications that the cabinet is pulling away from the wall. Open and close doors and drawers to confirm correct operation and alignment.

Cabinets

The cabinet is not properly secured. Cabinet screws with a washer head are required. This is a safety hazard. Secure the cabinet using approved fasteners.

The cabinet is damaged. This affects proper function and can be a safety hazard. Repair or replace the cabinet.

The cabinet door requires minor adjustments to work freely and to close properly. Adjust the door.

The cabinet door is loose or damaged. Secure or replace the door.

The cabinet door hinge is broken. Replace the door hinge.

The cabinet door hinge is missing. Replace the door hinge.

The cabinet door pull is loose or damaged. Secure or replace the door pull.

The cabinet door pull is missing. Replace the door pull.

The cabinet door is missing. Replace the door.

The cabinet drawer is inoperative. Repair or replace the drawer.

The cabinet drawer is missing. Replace the drawer.

Cabinets Limitation and Information Statements

Limitation Statements

Locked, not operated/tested: The cabinet is locked and, therefore, is not operated or tested.

Blocked, no entry/inspection: The cabinet is blocked and, therefore, is not operated or tested.

Information Statements

Near/at end useful life, budget for replacement: The cabinets are near or at the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the cabinets.

Past end useful life, budget for replacement: The cabinets are past the end of their useful lives. We recommend establishing a budget to replace the cabinets.

Countertops

Countertops are more than just beautiful surfaces; they are highly functional. It’s where the work gets done. Heavy, often hot, objects are placed on them. People cut, mix, chop, and lean on them. Children climb up to them (even though they shouldn’t). Built-in sinks must be properly installed to avoid water damage. Countertops that are not level, adequately supported, and secure are a hazard.

Inspect all countertops to ensure that they are free of damage and solidly connected to their base cabinet. You should not be able to shift or lift the top. Countertops must be sealed wherever water  penetration can occur, e.g. faucet mountings, backsplashes, and sink bowls. The overall surface should be level, except where water is directed to drain back into the sink. Any seams present should be sealed and fee of deterioration.

Countertops

The countertop is not secured properly. This is a safety hazard. Secure the countertop.

The countertop does not fit properly at the wall. This can permit water to penetrate the wall. Repair or replace the countertop and seal the edges against the wall.

The caulk at the countertop is deteriorated or missing. This permits water penetration and damage. Re-caulk as needed.

The countertop laminate is loose. This can allow water penetration and further deterioration. Repair or replace the countertop.

The grout has failed at the countertop’s tile junctions. This permits moisture to enter the gaps and cause damage. Regrout the tiles.

The countertop is damaged. This affects proper and safe function. Repair or replace the countertop as needed.

The countertop is warped and out of level. Replace the countertop.

Doors

It is easy to take the doors inside our homes for granted; we can open and close them all day without giving a second thought. That is, until something goes wrong. Usually a door’s issues are just an annoyance. Maybe you have to struggle to get into the closet, or you can’t keep a bathroom door closed for privacy, or keep the noise out of your office. But we have to remember that doors are also egress in an emergency, and as such have safety implications. Additionally, a loosely-mounted door, or one with glass installed, can be a personal injury hazard.

Inspect all doors for smooth operation and secure latching. They shouldn’t bind in the frame, rub the floor or carpet, or have large gaps when closed. Ensure that all hardware is present and in good condition, e.g. hinge pins, hinge screws, strike plates, etc. The glass in a passage door should be safety glass. Doors between garages and the living area should be fire-rated, not have pet openings installed, and in many jurisdictions should be equipped with a self-closer.

Doors

The door does not fit properly within frame. It is binding and/or has large gaps. This affects its function. Adjust or repair the door.

The door rubs on the carpet or floor. This will cause damage. Adjust or replace the door.

The door is damaged. This can affect proper function. Repair or replace the door.

The door is inoperative. Repair or replace the door.

The door is missing. Replace the door.

The door between the garage and living space is not fire rated. This is a safety concern. Install a fire-rated door.

Hardware

The sliding door floor guides are missing or damaged. This is a safety hazard that can allow the door(s) to come off the track. Replace the floor guides.

The door hardware is damaged or inoperative. This can affect proper operation. Replace the hardware.

The door hardware is missing. This can affect proper operation. Replace the hardware.

The doorknob is loose or broken. This can affect proper operation. Repair or replace the doorknob.

The doorknob is missing. This can affect proper operation. Repair or replace the doorknob.

The door hinge is loose or broken. This can affect proper operation. Repair or replace the hinge.

The door hinge is missing. This can affect proper operation. Replace the hinge.

The door hinge pin is missing. This can affect proper operation. Replace the hinge pin.

Glass

The door glass is missing. Replace the glass.

The door glass is broken. This is a safety concern. Replace the glass.

The door glass is not safety rated. While this may not have been required at installation, it is a hazard. Replace the door’s glass with a safety-rated pane.

Windows

While home inspectors look at windows from the interior and exterior of the house, homeowners generally engage with them while inside. They expect windows to function well; opening, closing, and latching easily. When opened, they should stay in place. While some Realtors® will argue that a failed insulated seal is only “cosmetic” and shouldn’t be in a report, an owner expects to be able to see through a clear pane. Of course, all windows should be weather-tight. Additionally, we must be aware of any safety concerns.

Inspect a “representative sampling” of windows, but get to as many as possible. Look for damage and deterioration. Ensure a good fit and function, intact glass, and clear insulated glass units. Note any windows that should have safety glass that do not.  Make sure that your IR scan includes the window area. Windows that provide emergency egress must be compliant, and any security bars must be operative. Don’t forget to inspect any screens present.

Windows

The window sash balance is broken or missing. This is a safety issue. Repair or replace the sash balanced or ropes.

The window is painted/stuck shut. This is a safety hazard. Remove the paint to unstick the window.

The window is nailed/screwed shut. This is a safety hazard. Remove the nails or screws and fill the holes.

The window hardware is damaged or inoperative. This affects proper function. Repair or replace the hardware.

The window hardware is missing. This affects proper function. Replace the hardware.

The window is damaged. This can affect proper operation. Repair or replace the window as needed.

The window is deteriorated. This can affect proper operation and allow water penetration. Repair or replace the window as needed.

The window sill is damaged or missing. Repair or replace the sill.

The window does not comply with emergency egress requirements. This is a safety issue. Install a window in compliance with emergency egress requirements.

The window security bars are inoperative. This is a safety issue. Repair or replace the security bars.

The window sash is loose when the window is closed. This permits air, and possibly water, to pass through. Repair or replace the sash.

Glass

The window glazing (putty) is deteriorated. This will allow air and water penetration, and damage to the sash. Install new glazing.

The window pane is broken. This is an energy loss and safety issue. Replace the window pane.

The window pane is missing. This is an energy loss and safety issue. Replace the pane.

The window is missing safety glass. No manufacturer’s mark is visible. While it may not have been required at the time of installation, it is still a safety concern. Replace the glass with safety rated glass.

The window has a thermoplastic sealant strip that has shifted out of place between the glass panes. This will likely lead to failure in the seal, resulting in a loss of insulation value, condensation, and fogging. Replace the insulated glass unit or the window as needed.

The window has a failed insulated glass seal.  This permits condensation stains to develop between the glass panes, and will increasingly compromise the visibility, appearance, and insulation value. Other unidentified windows with the same issue may exist since certain atmospheric conditions must be present to identify them. Replace the insulated glass unit or the window as needed.